Yachigusa Ryu

School Information / Updates

2009-10-26T13:50:00.000-07:00

For all those that may care about the internal politics here at Yachigusa-Ryu Aiki Bugei let it be known that:

As of November 15th., 2009 Gary Moro, Kyoshi will be moving to the city of Antioch located in Contra Costa County, CA, and begin teaching formally in that area.

The new school in Contra Costa County, once established, will become the Hombu Dojo (administrative headquarters) for Yachigusa-Ryu Aiki Bugei, and all matters relating to the art will be under the supervision of Gary Moro, Kyoshi.

Glen Hunt is formally awarded the rank of Shidoshi Ho (Junior Level Instructor) and promoted to Dojo Cho (Head instructor for the San Francisco branch school).

Epistimologically Vicious Circles

2009-04-08T23:00:00.000-07:00

I'm always interested when academics look at the martial arts. I had a friend who once commented that in East Asian Studies, it was far more legitimate to write about the artistic decoration of a sword than how it was used. The exotic "material culture" is acceptable, while methods of violence are déclassé. For this and many other reasons, the majority of martial scholarship is incomplete, inaccurate, and/or biased.

So I was quite pleased to read this article that explores the reasons why martial artists seem to have an aversion to digging for the truth. The title is a bit of a buzzword-mouthful, but it thoughtful and written for a popular audience (i.e., it is low on jargon).

"Epistemic Viciousness in the Martial Arts" by Gillian Russell

I stumbled upon this paper because this blog was referenced in a comment on to a post about the paper on the blog "Less Wrong". Oddly, while I had never read "Less Wrong," I follow its sister publication "Overcoming Bias." Such is the circular nature of the "Blogosphere."

Missing in Inaction

2009-04-08T22:56:00.000-07:00

I just wanted to let folks know that Gary and I are still here and haven't given up on writing, we've just both had a busy year with small children and haven't had a lot new to say. It's been a time to refocus on the basics.

It seems to me that we aren't the only ones at a loss for words recently. There haven't been many interesting discussions in the past year or so on blogs and message boards. I am curious to what degree this is cyclical, as folks have gotten tired of the boards and the arguing (just as there was a lot of discussion over email lists in the '90s that descended into sectarian arguments and then dissipated). Or perhaps traditional martial arts are just in a lull with shifting cultural trends and the dire economy.

The one big exception is there have been some long simmering discussions, largely on the Non-Aikido forum of AikiWeb, about developing internal strength in the aiki arts. It seems that some practitioners are trying to apply both modern science and the theories of Chinese internal martial arts to understand deep aspects of the Japanese arts. If one can sift through repetitive arguments, there's some useful gems. I'm hopeful that there's an intellectual movement happening that could bear fruit in the future.

A “Cobra Kai” Type Of Guy?

2008-08-31T23:27:00.000-07:00

The below is typical of a kind of letter I often receive from people who come across this blog. It's more or less a letter criticizing my “alleged” teaching methodologies, from someone who has never met me. At first one might just attribute these comments to a naïve young Judoka, but when we checked out the background of the writer he turned out to be a seasoned veteran, with some fairly substantial Judo credentials. However, it’s clear he really doesn’t understand the difference between “Martial Sport” and “Martial Art.”

“Hi Gary;
Just cruisin internet at night; a bit sleepless in nz
Judo crazy person
Read your diatribe on blog about why judo not aikido principles
To me they are very similar arts especially on principles; (of maximum efficiency with minimal effort)
Just they have different rules.
That u have striking to hurt instead of looking after your opposition even in a brawl smacks of lack of compassion;
Are u real??
In judo we are taught to look after our opponent so we do not hurt them, even in a brawl, (and our strikes are few but lethal for that special occasion where life threatening needs outweigh compassion)
U sound like the bad yanky coach on karate kid movie, but grappling based,
Is that what u have to do in usa to survive??
Sad indeed
Hope u take my criticism as constructive, sorry if I offend u”

First off, I don’t find this letter offensive at all. In fact everyone in class got a serious laugh out of the fact I was compared to “Karate Kid’s” Sensei John Kreese of the Cobra Kai. Anyone who knows me and the way I teach will tell you nothing is further from the truth.

Secondly, while it is true that in Judo one is taught to look after their opponent’s welfare, I would like to point out that Judo is a sport. While some Judoka I know practice like it is life or death, the goal of a Judo match is to win a CONTEST. There are “RULES” and safety for the competitors is enforced.

I mean no offense to Judoka, especially old-school Judo practitioners, such as my good friend Victor Anderson, who will quickly point out that certain aspects of Judo can be used for self-defense. But in most cases, sport Judo techniques are not viable on the street. And yes, I know there are self-defense kata (forms) within the art of Judo. Unfortunately, many of these forms are impractical, and more importantly are rarely practiced in most Judo schools. The fact is, most Judo schools focus the majority of their time on the sporting aspect of the art.

Lastly, I don’t know how the above writer defines a brawl, but any violent physical altercation that I did not initiate is one that I consider a threat to my health and welfare (and If I did initiate it, I deserve to have my butt kicked for being that stupid). That means I will "do onto others" before they have a chance to "do onto me". My opponent lacked the ability to show me compassion, by threatening me with physical injury, so he deserves no compassion in return.

That does not mean I have to knock-out, cripple ,and/or kill the attacker; but I’m going to make sure that whatever I do stops their aggressive actions as quickly and effectively as possible. This means stopping their aggressive acts by any, and I mean any, means necessary.

Simply put, I don’t look for opportunities to fight, never have, but I wont let anyone hurt my loved ones or me either.

My main grievances with the above letter--and others like it that I’ve received in the last year or so--is that they all come form people who practice a “martial sport,” and don’t understand that in the street, when one is forced to protect their life, there are no “RULES,” and no room for “Compassion.”

In addition, none of them have any idea how I teach. They just assume, like in this instance where I’ve been compared to Sensei Kreese, that I have a “Go For The Kill Mentality.” They think that I’m a violent type of guy that teaches fighting with no morality.

First of all, I have talked my way out of, walked away from, and ran away from more opportunities to fight than I can count. While some instructors, such as many of the Gracies, may boast how many “street type fights” they have won, I am equally proud to say how many I’ve avoided, simply because I saw no need to resort to physical violence.

Besides, fighting in my neighborhood is a no-win situation. In my neighborhood, winning a one-on-one fight today means having a two-on-one fight tomorrow. Worse yet, things may even escalate from there. With the abundance of easily obtainable weaponry, and a growing decline in reluctance to use such weaponry, things can get really ugly quickly.

Secondly, I do not teach my students to fight, nor do I advocate using violence to settle conflicts. However, when push comes to shove, I don’t teach my students to be victims.

The truth is that if one of my students gets in the unfortunate situation where their life or well-being is jeopardized, I want them to have all the tools necessary to defend themselves. How “lethal” they choose to be in any given situation is up to them. They need to weigh the circumstances of the situation, and their morals and beliefs. I won’t be there, and it’s not my place to second-guess anyone’s actions in such a situation. Clearly how I would react and how they may react can be worlds apart.

For example, if someone were to attack me I would most likely react one way. The amount of force I would use would be based on the situation and the how threatened I was. My defense would not be based on emotions, just necessity.

However, I wouldn’t stop defending myself until I was certain the threat was over. This could mean anything from severely injuring my opponent, to forcing him to retreat and run away. In either case the threat would be nullified before I stopped.

On the other hand, if someone were to attack my wife or my children, then I most likely would react excessively, and leave it up to the courts to determine whether I crossed the line. In this case, as much as I’ve trained to detach myself emotionally from a confrontation, my emotions would most likely get the best of me.

I, for one, fully understood the rage that drove a father to kill the man accused of molesting his son during the molester’s trail several years ago in Nevada. I’m not saying his actions were right, I just understand his motivation. I would never see myself doing the same thing, but I’m sure I would feel like I wanted to.

And, of course, if I caught someone in the act of hurting my loved ones, that’s another story. After all, anger and outrage can make a barbaric beast of even the most virtuous and forgiving of men.

Recently, I faced a situation where a man trespassing in the building I manage almost took a swing at me while I was holding my 6-month-old baby in my arms. If he had swung, I can assure everyone I would have gone for the kill. Or, maybe I should say my first counter-strike would have been enough to make sure there was no need for more. I don’t care how that sounds, but he was putting my child at risk (just to note, I didn’t approach/provoke him, he hostilely approached me because he knew I managed the place).

Now, I’m not saying that if I ever severely hurt or killed someone while protecting my family, or myself I wouldn’t feel remorse for my any actions. However there is a difference between remorse, and being justified, especially in terms of the judicial system.

It’s basically the same resolve I had as a police officer. As an officer, I knew there was always the possibility that one day I might have to use deadly force. While I hoped it would never happen, I knew that as long as I was justified I could live with my actions.

The truth of the matter, and my main disagreement with attitudes such as those expressed by the author of the above letter, is that one cannot approach life protection skills with a martial sports mind-set. They are totally different things.

If I am in a sporting contest, I have elected to place myself in such a situation. I know the risks. I also know there are rules, and referees which will end the contest if things get out of hand. I can afford to hold back and be less lethal. It’s a contest of skill.

Of course, ask boxers like Mike Tyson how much they held back with competing. Most boxers will tell you that during a match you hit as hard as you can with the intent to inflict as much damage as possible. In reality, there really isn’t that much “compassion” between two pugilists. The same can be said for Thai Boxing and a lot of the MMA that is popular today.

However, as aggressive as these fighting sports are, there is still a difference when it comes to life-protection skills. First and foremost, there are rules that govern what can and cannot be done. There are no rules in the real world: there are no referees, and in many cases the fight is against multiple assailants, or a weapon-wielding thug.

Secondly, in the real world, when I’m attacked, I didn’t initiate the conflict. I may have placed myself in a bad situation by being careless of my whereabouts/surroundings, but I should be able to walk the streets with out being accosted. I should be able to go to a bar and not have some loud mouth drunk get in my face.

To say that I should react with compassion in such a situation is ludicrous. I’m the victim here, and was the one attacked. I can’t help it if the attacker chooses the wrong person to mess with.

In my opinion, the attacker gave up all “Rights” to be treated humanely, when he decided to try and cause me, or my family, bodily harm.

It’s also ludicrous to say I should act compassionately in such an instant, because I may only have one chance to be successful with my defense. Any hesitation, anything but 100% focused purpose, might be just enough to give the attacker the upper hand.

Lastly, from a legal perspective, if I don’t feel my life and welfare are truly jeopardized I shouldn’t defend myself with physical force anyway, no matter what degree of force I chose to use. That’s a situation I should just walk away from.

Let me makes this perfectly clear, if I can’t justify my actions when resorting to use violence to defend myself/my family, later in a court of law to a “REASONABLE” degree then no matter what I did will be wrong. Even if I should choose to act “compassionately.”

* * *

For more context, see these previous essays:

* * *

Just as I was putting the finishing touch on the above essay, two very vivid examples of extremely violent altercations took place a block away form my house within 24 hours. One involved a stabbing and simultaneous shooting, and the other another shooting in retaliation for the first attack.

"Three Wounded in Attack in Mission", San Francisco Chronicle; July 11th, 2008

"Second Attack is Fatal at 20th and Mission", San Francisco Chronicle; July 12th, 2008

All these events occurred in broad daylight, on a very busy intersection, with numerous pedestrians and motorists around the event (those in law enforcement call these people innocent bystanders).

Now I’m not mentioning these incidents just to show how dangerous an area I live in. I’m mentioning it because it illustrates my point that when faced with serious life threatening situations one cannot afford to act compassionately. Or if they do they could end up dead, or seriously wounded, like the victims in this case.

While the above violence is gang related, these gang members put many innocent people in harm's way. Anyone in the area could have been hurt, just because they were in the wrong place at the wrong time. Clearly, these combatants could not care less for anyone’s welfare, and deserved any violent act one could commit on them in order to prevent/stop them from their aggressive acts.

For anyone to have the mind-set that a violent individual deserves any compassion when committing an act of violence is simply insane. Here in the real world, there are no second chances, no second round/match. Points are not awarded for great technique, nor is the goal to pin one’s opponent or make him tap out. There are no referees, except for whatever Deity you may believe in.

In the real world you live or die, and violence only leads to debilitating injury and/or death. It’s just your choice whether you are on the receiving end or not.

As the old adage says, “It’s better to be judged by twelve than carried by six.”

K-9 Self-Defense – A Follow Up – Part 2 of 3

2008-07-15T15:22:00.000-07:00

If you haven’t read part one of this topic I strongly urge you to do so. Part two will only deal with mid to moderate level methods of dealing with a violent dog attack.

Maybe it’s unnecessary to say, but I strongly believe that learning to prevent and/or avoid a dog attack is far more beneficial than learning the bulk of what’s in this section. If I didn’t feel that way, there would have been no need for me to write part one on this topic.

Furthermore, no one should practice any of these techniques on their family pet. Severe injury or death of the animal could occur, and depending on the laws in your area you could face charges of animal cruelty. In addition, your family pet may resent your actions, and bite the hell out of you in retaliation. Speaking on the dog’s behalf, you would deserve it.

Lastly, there is absolutely no guarantee that anything described below will work in any particular situation; anyone attempting to use said techniques does so at their own risk. However, if you should find yourself in such an unfortunate situation and something I wrote helped you out, please let me know.

Finally, no dogs, mainly my own, were hurt during any of the photo shoots. Annoyed maybe, confused certainly, but the utmost caution was always used to prevent any distress. And there were always plenty of treats afterwards.

Self-Defense Against A Canine

Before continuing, I suggest watching the below video. Though it’s a bit on the long side, this is what a dog attack looks like. Keep in mind that these are trained dogs, and because of their training they mostly only attack the arm of their victim. An untrained dog won't be so target specific.

In addition note the following:

The force of the attack.
That none of these dogs have an issue with the size of their victim.
The fact that even though some bad guys are armed and even hitting the dog during the attack, this does not deter or stop the dog’s attack at all.
That being high above ground doesn’t stop the dog from getting to its target.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=QKf3Vhh0iWY

Now that you’ve watched the video, let me tell you something you most likely figured out, but don’t want to hear. Your chances of successfully defending yourself against a hostile dog, intent on attacking you, without suffering major injuries are almost zero. If the dog has been trained to attack, it is even lower.

First of all dogs move faster than humans.

Secondly, their teeth are designed to rip flesh and crush bone.

Third, your screaming and physical efforts to defend yourself may do nothing more than just incite the dog to become even more aggressive.

Lastly, dogs lack the restraining moral dilemmas, or fear of punishment, that may inhibit humans from attacking another person to such excess.

To illustrate how hard it is to stop an attacking dog: there are numerous cases where people have come to the aid of a person being attacked by a dog, and after hitting the dog several times with baseball bats have been unable to stop the dog’s aggressive actions.

I, for one, know of a police K-9 that was shot in the face with a .38 caliber revolver and who still brought the suspect to the ground before collapsing from its injuries. That’s focus and determination for you (the dog did recover, and was retired.)

With that said, you the reader might wonder why I’m wasting my time writing this. Well, any actions you take are better than nothing, and some techniques definitely work better than others. Just remember that desperate times require desperate actions.

Keep in mind though that nothing I’m about to write below is guaranteed to work, and in order to protect oneself one will most likely have to improvise.

Basic Methods

Chemical Weapons

The major problem with any chemical dog repellent is that one has to had the foresight to arm themselves with such a weapon in advance. Since the majority of people don’t carry around such items, in many respects this isn’t worth my time covering. However, since some people have such predilection for spouting off the merits of such items I would be remiss if I didn’t make some comments.

First and foremost, based on everything I’ve read and my own personal experience, they do not work. To be totally fair though, it would be better to state that no one formula works on every dog, and that in most cases none of them work as well as they are advertised to do so. Certainly, many people--my postman for one--claim to have had success with them.

While I would never rely on chemical weaponry, I will concede that some aggressive dogs will be turned away/distracted if you spray something in their face. Even spraying water works very effectively when I need to deter Taiko (my dog) from some bad behavior. However, I believe these results are based more on the dog’s intent and determination, rather than the repellant chosen.

For example, chemical repellents might work great on Fi Fi who is halfheartedly charging at the postman. They may not work so well on Rex, the territorial Alpha dog who is hell-bent on protecting his front yard.

In my experience, I have never witnessed a trained attack dog that was in the least bit fazed by pepper spray or mace. In two drills at the police academy, my dog and I had to walk through a thick cloud of both agents and perform several tasks. While the dog didn’t like it--for that matter neither did I--I think I was much more debilitated than he was. I'm not even sure he was debilitated at all, he didn’t show any outward signs; I on the other had felt like my face was on fire.

I also used to have a German Shepherd with an inappropriate chewing problem, and every repellent I used she licked it up as if were the greatest dog treat in the world--so much for all those guarantees that these things work.

Now, I’m not saying one should not try to use dog repellents before resorting to another course of action. Anything is worth trying. All I’m suggesting, and suggesting strongly, is to not rely on them.

If they work for you, that is great. If they don't, you had better have a back up plan.

Mid Level Methods

Since my training with dogs is limited, and some of what I know might be outdated, before I started this section I tried to get some input from the professional dog walkers/trainers in San Francisco, where I live. As you might imagine, my inquiries were met with a lot of animosity.

Even when I tried to explain my reasons for writing such an article, and showed pictures of children with dog bites, most of what I was told was that these incidents were all the fault of the owners. I don’t disagree, but that doesn’t help once a dog attack has begun. Even less helpful were the replies that basically asserted there was nothing one could do.

One professional dog walker--and keep in mind that when I say “professional,” I mean this is their sole employment, although they may or may not have had any formal/serious dog handling training/experience--berated me, claiming there is never any reason to ever hit a dog.

When I asked her what she would do if a dog was attacking her and gnawing her leg, she said she would do “nothing.” Yes, that was her answer. She then added that if a dog ever attacked/bit her it would mean that she must have done something to provoke the dog’s behavior. The worst part is I believe she really feels this way.

Mind you, San Francisco is unique among most major cities when it comes to dogs and the attitudes of many of the people who own them. For example in San Francisco, a human does not “own” their dog. Believe it or not, according to a city ordinance, a dog is considered a “companion,” and the human is its “legal guardian.” Of course if your “companion” bites someone you are still legally responsible. Guardianship also doesn’t get you out of a ticket when you explain to the animal control officer that your “companion” didn’t feel like wearing his leash today. But as his “companion,” do I really have the ability to force him to wear it?

Technique #1 – Defensive Stance

This is relatively easy. Basically, all it entails is adopting a defensive position where your face, neck, and groin area are protected as much as possible. The important factor is trying to keep your body relaxed until the moment of impact. By being relaxed, you will have more mobility to react to the dog’s actions--or as we would say in the Aiki arts , “flow” with the dog’s aggressive actions.

Keep in mind that it is almost impossible to meet a dogs force with force. That’s would be like two cars hitting head on.

A better course of action would be to side step, duck, or twist away from the incoming dog like a matador facing a bull, following up the evasion with some kind of grab, kick, or punch (note that these various evasion methods are all utilized to varying degrees of success in the video showing dog attacks listed above).

Another element of the defensive stance is location. If it is possible, place your back against an object such as a car, tree, wall, etc. While this will reduce your mobility, it will also reduce the directions the dog can attack you from.

Verbal commands such as “stop,” “bad dog,” “sit,” and “down” should be attempted at this time, as well as yelling for assistance.

Technique #2 – The Standoff

This is also relatively easy. Importantly, it puts a weapon in your hand that can be used defensively or offensively if the situation escalates.

Basically, the “standoff” is nothing more than picking up an object and placing it between you and the dog. The bigger the object, the better; but in most cases you will have to make do with whatever is immediately available. Do not pick up something extremely heavy or awkward to maneuver, as this will only slow down your ability to use it effectively.

If you’re lucky, the object you select will not only act as a shield, but it may also startle the dog. Being startled may be enough to get the dog to retreat, or at least back down. When we first picked up the safety cone in the below photos, Taiko was very apprehensive about even approaching it. Having really never encountered one, especially one being waved around in the air, he wasn’t sure what to make of it. It actually took several minutes of encouragement to get Taiko to want to play tug of war with it.

This tree branch does not look very formidable but all the smaller
branches on the end make it hard for the dog to negotiate it. The small branches
also allow the defender to thrust the branches into the face of
the dog striking the dog at numerous points all at the same time.

Both sides of the safety cone proved to be effective.
However the larger end was more of a deterrent.

The standoff is really nothing more than applying one of the first rules of any self-defense system: the use of improvised weaponry. Be creative, and utilize every possible aspect of whatever item you may find.

While taking these photos, we discovered that the safety cone was not only good for fending off Taiko, but that my son’s arm could be placed inside off it like a sleeve. In many respects the safety cone functioned in the same manner as the padded sleeve used to train police/military dogs. My son clearly felt the pressure of Taiko’s bite, but the teeth did not penetrate the skin. (The next day my son’s arm was pretty bruised though.)

Obviously, safety cones can’t be found lying around everywhere. However, a heavy coat could be wrapped around the arm and function just as well.

While using the Standoff technique may not stop dogs from attacking, it could slow them down and provide them with an alternative target to bite at. Your objective at this time is to provide yourself with enough time to determine the best way to escape, to determine what follow up techniques may be necessary, and hopefully buy enough time for help to arrive.

Technique #3 – Throwing Objects

This course of action will most likely not stop dogs from attacking either, but it may slow them down, and give you a few fractions of a second to plan another course of action. You may also get lucky enough to get a dog with a high “fetch” drive--like those ball obsessed dogs you often see at the park. In that case, they may switch course and go after the thrown object--although I wouldn’t bet on it.

How effective throwing an object will be depends on the size and nature of the object and your accuracy. If you happen to be a ninja with a pocket full of shuriken, you may do well. However, chances are the objects you’ll find at hand won't make this defense worth your time and effort.

If you’re going to try this, I suggest sand/dirt, a handful of small to medium sized rocks (gravel), glass bottle, keys, coins, water (liquids), and any food you may have on you.

Technique #4 – Punching and Kicking

For the most part punching and kicking a dog will be a lesson in futility. Chances are that all you will do is antagonize the dog more, and place your attacking limb closer to the dog making it easier for it to bite you.

However, if this is all you can do, than go for it--and go for it with all the focus and power you can muster. Strike as fast as you can, as many times as you can. Don’t stop until the dog is no longer a threat.

This is an example of utilizing the “Standoff” method and
a kick. Since the dog’s mouth is busy biting the cone it
makes the kick a lot safer to execute.

It should be noted at this point that dogs have a higher threshold of pain than we humans. Any striking technique used must be extremely forceful to have even a minor affect. Fortunately, like humans, dog’s do have week spots that can be injured easier than others. While aiming for these will be difficult they are worth your effort. The below are a few examples.

Note: If you’re an Animal Rights extremist, easily offended dog lover, or cannot bear the thought of ever, under any circumstances, hitting a dog skip the next section.

And do I really need to say this again, “Don’t Try This At Home!!”

Target 1 – The Eyes

This of course would be more of a gouge than a strike. I suggest using the tips of your thumbnails and pushing them in and up. This can be accomplished most easily by using your fingers to grab onto the lose skin on the dog’s head, and curling your fingers into a fist.

The goal of this technique is to create enough generalized pain that the dog will retreat or pull back. It may not stop the dog for more than a few seconds, but one can use the dog’s retreating motion to follow up with another technique.

This is also one target I would suggest biting, if that’s the only defense left for you.

In addition to gouging the dogs eyes I also use my legs to push the dog back.

This technique is very good for those coming to the aid of a person a vicious dog has latched onto, although I hear it does not work on Pit Bulls.

Target 2 – The Ears

One thing every dog I’ve ever owned had in common was the fact they all hated having their ears cleaned. They didn’t mind when I started at the top of the ear, but as I got closer and closer to the skull--where all the dirt and wax always seems to accumulate the most--they would whimper, kick, and squirm, making every attempt to get away form me.

There are two main ways to attack the ears. For dogs with floppy ears, (Cocker Spaniel, Beagle, Labs, Bloodhound, etc.), simply grab, twist and pull. Pull the ears behind the dog’s head and use them like reins on a horse.

For dogs with short upright ears, (Shepherd, Chihuahua, Schnauzer, etc.), gouge the ear hole and force your fingers as deep as they will go. If attacking both ears at the same time, squeeze the head to maintain control.

In most cases you will have to do this facing the dog. However, to reduce your chance of injury, the best way to apply these methods is from the rear. This makes this target better suited for those coming to the aid of a dog bite victim, than for those being attacked.

Target 3 – The Nose

I almost hesitate to mention this one, simply because trying to get at the nose places one's hands way too close to the dog’s teeth. However, a dog’s nose is fairly sensitive and can be attacked in several ways.

Obviously, one of those ways is to kick or punch the nose. Another method is to bite the nose. These methods are pretty self-explanatory.

A less obvious way to is to grab the tip of the nose and twist it. Done properly, one can actually twist the dog’s head. The hard part is maintaining grip as the dog tries to pull away.

The last method is to force your fingers inside the nostrils themselves. If you take this course of action use your other fingers to wrap around the dogs jaw or chin to gain further control. Of course, this places your fingers in harms way, but if you get desperate enough to force your fingers in a dog’s nose you’ve most likely been bitten several times already and are in a fight for your life. Hopefully by this point, your adrenaline would be flowing to the point where you aren't feeling much of the pain.

Target – 4 The Toes

Just think how many times you’ve accidentally stepped on your dog’s foot. In every instance, the dog has made a yelping sound and made every effort to pull as far away form you as possible.

Now imagine purposefully stomping on a dog’s foot with as much strength as you have. While it may not fully stop the dog, it will cause them pain, and distract them momentarily. Done hard enough, at the right angle, you may even damage the paw to the point where weight can’t be placed on it. This would slow the dog down immensely.

Target – 5 The Testicles

I have absolutely no first hand knowledge of how effective striking a dog in his testicles would be. However, I’ve heard from several breeders of hunting dogs that it will. Unfortunately, these breeders never told me how they came to this conclusion; I never asked for a demonstration either.

Of course, in my quest for the truth I did ask the K-9 training officers at the police academy, as well as Taiko’s veterinarian. All I got were strange looks, a few sarcastic comments, and the normal answer of, “probably not.”

All I can really say on this topic is this; on one occasion while giving a Taiko a bath--which he hates and fights as if I was trying to drown him--I did accidentally hit his testicles. While he “yelped” and give me what I could only interpret as a dirty, look it did not stop him from trying to escape the bathing process. Based on that, I’m going to say that hitting a dog in the testicles, or better yet grabbing and trying to rip them off, may have some effect. Then again, the effect might be that he just gets angrier.

Since statistics show that un-neutered male dogs bite more often than other dogs, it may be worth a try. Of course trying to determine the sex of a charging dog, and whether he is intact or not may not be possible or prudent.

Vital Points

This canine striking point was taught to me by an uncle who happened to raise hunting dogs. These dogs were not house pets, and were aggressive. They would constantly challenge his authority and fight each other. Sometimes during hunts, they got carried away to the point they would no longer respond to verbal commands.

Since the nature of a pack of hunting dogs is such that one dog will incite the others, any hostile challenges to my uncle’s authority had to be handled swiftly and efficiently. In order to maintain control, the effects of his techniques also had to be devastating, or even debilitating (note that I’m not here to judge my uncle or his actions).

As my uncle told me, knowing where to hit is one thing, having the opportunity and ability to actually hit that point is another. That’s the tricky part, and why I debated with myself whether to even share them in the first place.

I’m no expert when it comes to the anatomy of a dog. Since I lack such knowledge, I consulted Taiko’s veterinarian who has over 25 years of experience. While he could not specifically state why this target is so effective, he was able to confirm where specific vital organs were in relation to it. I will mention though, that Taiko’s veterinarian was of the opinion that there is really no specific point on a dog that one could strike that would deter a dog once an attack has begun.

Vital Point #1

Vital point one is located on the side of the chest directly under point where the elbow touches the torso.

This point should be struck inwards and upward towards the dog’s head to obtain the best results. Kicking with the toes, or jabbing with the fingers would be the best way to fit into the space.

Based on my discussion with Taiko’s veterinarian, this point most likely causes damage to the diaphragm, heart, and lungs by compressing the rib cage. Of course, in order to do such major damage the strike would have to be extremely hard and precise.

I once saw my uncle kick one of his hunting dogs in this spot full force, and the dog went flying. After hitting the ground, it took every ounce of effort the dog had left to limp away. The dog died the next day. Now, before I get angry e-mails about my uncle’s actions, I don’t know if he intended to kill the dog or not. But I do know that the dog was in the process of biting his neighbors show horse, and some immediate intervention was necessary. It was either my uncle’s kick, or the farmer’s Remington .30-06.

Clearly the potential of this strike is lethal. However, if lesser force is used, this is a perfect spot to use to force a dog off balance or knock the wind out of the dog.

Vital Point #2

This is also another point my uncle taught me. This one is located where the thigh meets the flank.

It should be struck inwards and upward towards the tail. Once again, kicking with the toes, or jabbing with the fingers would be the best way to fit into the space.

Anatomically, the only organs near this target are the intestines and bladder, so I’m going to have to assume striking here must damage them in some way. However, even Taiko’s veterinarian was at a loss to explain why striking this area would be so effective.

One theory I have,, based on observing a lot of dog interaction in the park, is that this spot is the same spot dogs cling onto when mating or showing their dominance over another dog. It may be an innate reaction for the dog to either drop, or twist around when this spot feels pressure. At least, that’s the behavior dogs exhibit when they are not responsive to being mounted. Like I said, it’s a theory.

Although I can’t explain why this point works, I can attest to the fact that it does. Not only have I seen this point used on unruly dogs on several occasions, I must confess that I’ve also resorted to using it for various disciplinary reasons.

Clearly, none of these situations were defensive in nature, or involved a hostile dog. I should also point out that in none of these situations was the dog kicked or punched either. No, the dog was simply poked. That’s all it took to get the dog to turn around, sit, or knock the dog off balance enough to force it to his side.

While I don’t think this is as good a target as vital point #1, if hit properly it will work.

Technique #5 Forward/Rear Foot Sweep / Leg Lift

This is another technique more suited for someone coming to the aid of an attack victim than people trying to defend themselves. The main reason I say this is that the timing and accuracy needed to hit/grab the target makes it extremely difficult if the dog is attacking you.

Basically the idea is to sweep the legs from under the dog. Done correctly this will destabilize the dog’s balance, allowing for follow up techniques.

A variation of this technique is sweeping and/or pulling the rear legs with your arms and lifting the dog off the ground. In fact, this method has often been taught as the only method to use to control an aggressive Pit Bull or to make it let go of something it has latched onto.

If you’re not the dog’s owner don’t attempt this, unless you have no choice. Even if you are the owner, be prepared for the dog to turn his hostilities towards you. And don’t think you are in a position where the dog can’t get you. You would be extremely surprised to see the flexibility and dexterity a dog can exhibit.

Watch the below video and see how this Pit Bull twists away and eventually attacks the people holding it. It happens twice. Also note that even when the dog is shot at point blank range by the police who respond to the scene, he still manages to run away.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=W66UqWdz_oY

End Part 2

A Piece of Steak

2008-05-23T14:40:00.000-07:00

I watched the poor-boxer-makes-good movie Cinderella Man recently, and it really echoed a classic boxing short story by Jack London: A Piece of Steak by Jack London. In fact, the script had Russel Crowe specifically talk about "a piece of steak" in what must have been an allusion.

If you've never read it, I think that this story is worth a look because it really focuses on the battle of youth versus experience as a tired, old, dirt poor, washed up fighter uses wisdom and tricks to wear down and attempt to defeat an up-and-coming young buck.

This is the paragraph that has stayed with me over the years:

And Tom King patiently endured. He knew his business, and he knew Youth now that Youth was no longer his. There was nothing to do till the other lost some of his steam, was his thought, and he grinned to himself as he deliberately ducked so as to receive a heavy blow on the top of his head. It was a wicked thing to do, yet eminently fair according to the rules of the boxing game. A man was supposed to take care of his own knuckles, and, if he insisted on hitting an opponent on the top of the head, he did so at his own peril. King could have ducked lower and let the blow whiz harmlessly past, but he remembered his own early fights and how he smashed his first knuckle on the head of the Welsh Terror. He was but playing the game. That duck had accounted for one of Sandel's knuckles. Not that Sandel would mind it now. He would go on, superbly regardless, hitting as hard as ever throughout the fight. But later on, when the long ring battles had begun to tell, he would regret that knuckle and look back and remember how he smashed it on Tom King's head.

Self-Defense Against a K-9, A Follow Up: Part 1 of 3

2008-05-05T15:35:00.000-07:00

A couple of months ago I received a very nice e-mail from Mr. Loren W. Christensen the author of "Karate Vs Canines," an article that appeared in the February 2008 issue of Black Belt Magazine. His e-mail was in response to my comments regarding his article as well as some of my general comments on self-defense against canines.

He was also kind enough to send me a copy of his e-book, which I referred to in my blog essay, "Self-Defense Against A Dog Attack" (http://www.lwcbooks.com/books/ebookdog.html). As I had speculated, his e-book covers the topic more in depth, and is a great supplement for anyone who read his article in Black Belt magazine. I also recommend it as an addition to what I am writing here.

One aspect of the book I really liked was that he discusses the fact many dog attacks are the result of owners who don't properly train, discipline, or understand the canine mind.

I, for one, really have a problem with people who treat their dogs like humans. Worse yet are people who treat their dog like it is an accessory--think various starlets such as Paris Hilton.

Now don't get me wrong, I love my dog, and he is definitely considered one of the family; but he is still a dog. He is an animal. No matter how much I anthropomorphize his behavior, he is not human, and never will be.

Being a pack animal, my dog will try and assert himself as leader--the alpha--if he senses weakness, or my family allows him to do what he wants. That is his nature and I have to respect that. Understanding such differences between our species, and using a dog's innate desire to fit into a pack, is how we humans teach our canine companions to be good doggies.

In addition, no matter how responsible of a dog owner I might be, there is no way I can completely train my dog not to do the things a dog will do. Domesticated though he may be, dogs are still very akin to their wolf brethren and are often driven by primal instincts. All I can really hope to accomplish is to keep behavior as socially acceptable as possible.

No matter how well trained a dog is, how seemingly friendly, dog attacks can and will happen. And when such a situation arises, we humans need to know how to defend ourselves. We also need to know how to stop our dogs when verbal commands fail, and they are in the process of injuring another animal or humans.

As a dog owner I have certainly witnessed aggressive dogs at the park. I've also heard countless stories about dogs killing other dogs, or people getting bitten, in various dog parks in the Bay Area.

Normally these stories focus on an inept dog owner, who lacks the ability to control their dog, or an owner who just doesn't care how their dog behaves. Let's face it, some people should just not be dog owners, especially of specific breeds that tend to be more aggressive.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=hY9EKHAqUUI"
This is a great video of a person who should not be a dog owner, or at least was irresponsible enough not to seek out the proper help to teach her how to stop her dog's aggressive behavior.

However, no matter what the story is, or the circumstances are that led to the dog attack, all of these situations have a common factor. That factor is that most of the humans involved have no idea how to confront the canine(s).

To be sure, two dogs fighting, or an aggressive dog about to attack and bite a person, is intimidating, The potential for getting injured is real, but action is required. And screaming "BAD DOG!" isn't enough.

Initially, when I first discussed this topic, I had no intentions of writing about specific techniques to fend off or stop a dog attack. However, based on the numerous requests from my students and e-mails asking me to do just that, I will. Just remember: I in no way, shape, or form advocate ever hitting/striking a dog, even in training.

Furthermore, this blog will be on the long side, (three parts) since if I'm going to write about this topic I'm going to do it right. This means not only teaching self-defense techniques once an attack has occurred, but also teaching the warning signs and how to prevent them from happening in the first place.

Finally, no dogs, mainly my own, were hurt during any of the photo shoots. Annoyed maybe, confused certainly, but the utmost caution was always used to prevent any distress. And there were always plenty of treats afterwards.

The Protagonist

Let me start this series by introducing the German Shepherd in most of the photos. His name is Taiko, and he happens to be my three-year-old 89lb German Shepherd. Now, Taiko is about as mellow as a dog gets. In fact, he dispels all the myths about the aggressive non-neutered male dog. To be honest, his nature can be kind of embarrassing at times, especially when he gets chased to submission by his nemesis—a 4lb Yorkie named Leo.

Taiko shares a chicken breast with his cat pal, Shinobi.
A dog sharing his dinner with a cat? How much more mellow can you get?

Despite all his mellowness, the potential for Taiko's aggressiveness is always present, and I am fully aware that things can change in an instant. For example, there is another three-year-old German Shepherd in the park who Taiko will attack on sight. And one shouldn't dare to knock on the font door of my house; barking and flashing teeth always greet guests, although, the truth be told, there is nothing behind the façade. Of course, trying to convince others it's all an act isn't always easy. Clearly, Taiko should be nominated for an Oscar.

Keeping Taiko's Dr. Jekyll and potential Mr. Hyde personalities in mind, and the lethal potential he could inflict on man or animal, I'm fully aware that one day I may need to use force to stop Taiko from injuring others. In that case, I want whatever technique I use to be as effective as possible, hopefully without causing Taiko a life long disability, or having to resort to using lethal force. Though if deadly force is necessary, I want the technique to be as quick and painless as possible.

This means that any technique I use must be swift and efficient, and produce sufficient force to stop the altercation. In order to do that, I must train myself to attack the weak points of a dog, or points that evoke an innate response, just as I train myself to attack a human adversary.

More importantly, I must have some understanding about how dogs think, why and how dogs attack, and some of the warning signs that signal a dog attack may be imminent. Trust me, it's a lot easier to stop a dog fight/dog attack from happening, than it is to stop it once it has begun.

When Good Dogs Go Bad

Why a dog becomes hostile and attacks is a hard question to answer since no one really knows how a dog thinks. Many "experts" have many theories, but how a dog processes information and makes decisions is still a mystery.

I used to have a Cocker Spaniel that was deathly afraid of parked motorcycles. Whenever he saw one, he would freeze and then go into attack mode. I have no idea why he acted this way, and no trainer could come up with an explanation. For whatever reason, something about parked motorcycles triggered something primal in his brain, and no amount of corrective training stopped this behavior.
For the most part though, dogs attack to: protect themselves or their pack (including their adopted human family) from real or perceived danger, out of fear, to defend territory, to protect food, for the sake of mating, or to display dominance.

Dogs also attack if they are trained and commanded to do so. But for the most part, this esasy will not be about trained attack dogs. Dealing with a dog is different in that case because if he is trained properly, he will only attack on command, and he will only attack specific targets, usually the arm. In addition, the dog will also immediately stop attacking when ordered to do so. That said, I will admit I've seen a few police K-9's that got carried away.

The triggers that cause a normal dog to attack can vary, and a stimulus that evokes a reaction one day may not evoke the same or any reaction on another day. Using Taiko as an example, the Shepherd he now attacks on sight used to be a playmate, and what changed friends to foes is a mystery to everyone but them.

Unfortunately, for whatever reason, once a dog decides to react in a negative manner, what once was your loving pet can suddenly become Cujo.

My experience was that every dog biting case I was dispatch to as a police officer involved the family pet and a young child , and, if witnesses are to be believed, came without any warning signs. Worse yet, the common sentiment of these owners was that they never thought little "fluffy" could ever act like that.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=OWiyNxS2NuE
Georgia Rice, a 7 year-old, talks about being attacked by a pit-bull.

While witnesses will claim there were no warning signs, the truth of the matter is that most dog attacks occur when people don't pay attention to warning signs, or just don't understand what these warning signs are. This is especially true for little kids, who not only fail to comprehend the warning signs, but also may be seen as subordinates by a dominant-minded canine. In the worst cases, a dog might even see them as prey.

The fact is that 61% of all dog attacks happen in the home or a familiar place, and children 15 years old and under more likely to be the victims by 3 to 1. Children seen in emergency departments were more likely than older persons to be bitten on the face, neck, and head, making their injuries a lot more serious. Statically, dog bites result in approximately 44,000 facial injuries in US hospitals each year. This represents between 0.5% and 1.5% of all emergency room visits.

Determining which breed of dog is more likely to bite, or cause a fatality is simple; you just have to look at the published research. According to the Center for Disease Control (CDC), un-neutered male dogs are the most likely to bite. Breeds that bite most often were Pit Bulls, Rottweilers, Presa Canarios, German Shepherds, Huskies, Alaskan Malamutes Dobermen Pinschers, Chows, Great Danes, St. Bernards and Akitas.

As far as fatalities are concerned, according to the Clifton Study, Pit Bulls, Rottweilers, Presa Canarios and their mixes were responsible for 65% of the canine homicides between 1982 and 2006. This is a startling percentage when one considers the fact that these three breeds do not make up anywhere near that proportion of dogs owned in the US.

Although there are arguments debating the accuracy of the Clifton Study, one should keep in mind that any breed of dog has the potential to bite and/or kill a human, no matter what the usual tempermant or size.

For example, on October 9th 2000, the Los Angeles Times reported a story about an infant girl who was killed by the family's Pomeranian ("Baby Girl Killed by Family Dog," Los Angeles Times, Monday, October 9, 2000, Home Edition, Metro Section, Page B-5).

In this case, the baby's uncle had left the dog and baby alone on a bed. In the time it took the uncle to heat a bottle, the Pomeranian mauled the infant to the point were she died from her wounds shortly thereafter.

Pomeranians weigh between 3-7 pounds, and range in height from 7 to 12 inches. Normally a Pomeranian is not the type of dog one would worry about being a killer. Of course, that's my point. Don't ever assume that just because a dog appears cute and cuddly that it lacks the potential to cause severe injury and/or death.

While pictures of babies with the family dog look cute, babies. Toddlers, and young children should never be left unattended or unsupervised with a dog.

Warning Signs and How To React

The first rule is to never approach an unfamiliar dog. If the dog's owner is present, ask permission before approaching or touching. Sometimes, even a dog you know, and who has always been friendly, can react differently when on leash. It's always better to use caution.

My previous German Shepherd, Jenny, became extremely aggressive when on leash because she felt more inclined to protect who ever was walking her, and because she felt her movements were more restricted. This was especially true when other dogs came too close.

The second rule is to never assume that just because a dog is wagging it's tail it is happy and friendly. A wagging tail can mean many other things, including fear or nervousness. A fearful dog is unpredictable, and can react defensively when approached or confronted by someone or something unfamiliar.

Unless you own the dog, never corner it. And if a dog doesn't want your attention, don't force the issue. There are plenty of other dogs out there that will relish your company.

Lastly, don't think offering a strange dog food will instantly make the two of you friends. Dogs will at times bite the hand that feeds them. In fact, dogs can become quite obnoxious about food matters, and a dog that was begging one moment may become more aggressive in order to get what he wants a moment later.

To determine a dog's real intentions, one must look at his total posture. Are his ears back? Are the dog's "hackles" (the areas over the shoulders and just before the tail) erect? Are his eyes narrow or staring challengingly? Is the dog barking/growling or showing his teeth?

This is a picture of Taiko on alert. Startled by a larger dog leaping from the bushes, his hackles and tail are up, as if to say "I'm a big dog too, approach with caution." One should stop and wait for a dog to change this posture before approaching.

Taiko and his pal Smity appear to display many of the signs of hostility and aggression, but looks are deceiving. They are actually just playing.

While any of the above signs don't necessarily mean the dog is aggressive or has hostile intent, when in doubt, one should assume they are the dog's way of warning you. Walk away slowly, and leave the situation.

Note that I said walk away. Don't ever run. Running can evoke a dog's prey drive, and cause him to chase you down.

If you start to walk away and the dog follows, then stop and remain still. Some trainers refer to this tactic as "becoming a tree." This is a time to try using verbal commands, with the hopes that either something you say triggers a trained response or the dog realizes you are really no threat.

I suggest you use the words "sit" or "down," rather than screaming "bad dog." Speaking firmly can be productive, but remember dogs don't understand human speech; so trying to verbally explain you are not a threat is a waste of energy. This may sound like a no-brainer, but I've seen my share of people—especially dog owners—trying to verbally convince their dog to behave better. For that matter, I've been guilty of that myself from time to time.

I've also heard trainers suggest that when walking away or "becoming a tree" doesn't work, one should climb a tree or jump over a fence. If there happen to be tall climbable trees close enough to get to, go for it; most dogs don't climb well. However, you better climb fairly high and pretty quickly—at least high enough where the dog can't jump and reach you. As for jumping a fence, chances are that if you can jump the fence so can the dog. And he will most probably do it faster and more easily than you.

I'm 6 feet 2 inches tall; the stick in my hand is even higher. Taiko completed this jump from a sitting position without really giving the attempt much effort. Imagine what he could do with some real intention and momentum.

Monkey bars or a slide may offer some protection if there is one near by. I recommend the monkey bars as I've know many dogs who have no problem climbing up to the top of the slide. While neither offers great protection, it will make it harder for the dog to get to you.

If you think a car offers protection, think again. Unless you're inside the car with the doors closed and windows rolled up, a dog can still get to you.

My recommendation is that if you are going to waste your energy trying to physically avoid a dog attack, spend the little time you have finding an object that you can either hit the dog with or place between you and the dog.

Another strategy I've heard some dog trainers suggest is that once you realize the dog attack is imminent, you should drop to the ground and adopt a submissive position. In other words, you should roll yourelves up in a ball, face down, with your legs tucked in and your hands wrapped over the back of the neck. This is similar to th position people are told to assume during a bear attack.

Since I have no first hand knowledge if such a tactic would be effective, and several police canine trainers have laughed at me when I brought it up, I have my doubts that this would work. My suspicion is that it would just place a person in a better position for the dog to attack. However, depending on the dog and his reasons for attacking, who knows. This would never be my first choice, but if all else failed I might try it. At least you can protect your face, groin, and neck this way.

The last tactic I've heard of, which is also debatable, is that when confronted by an aggressive dog, you should try and appear bigger. The theory is that the dog will be intimidated by such a larger adversary and become submissive.

I question this theory for several reasons. First of all, we humans, for the most part, are already larger than most dogs. Additionally, if size mattered to canines, they wouldn't be used in law enforcement work. I, for one, have never seen a trained police K-9 give size a second thought when chasing or taking down a suspect.

Secondly, while two dogs meeting will often "fluff" themselves up to appear bigger, this posturing doesn't always work. Often, two dogs equally trying to inflate their personal stature just leads to further physical forms of dominance/hostility to determine who the real "big" dog is.

Lastly, I've obeserved that size doesn't matter in many situations—like the one that exists between Taiko and his nemesis, Leo. Watching the two of them clearly indicates to me that size among dogs is not as much of an issue as it should be. Leo, a tiny 4lb Yorkie, somehow—through shear moxie—convinced Taiko that he is the dominant male. He must think that he is a great giant of a dog despite all evidence to the contrary.

In reality, Taiko could bite Leo in half without blinking an eye, or crush him with the weight of his paw. Why Taiko seems to accept/tolerate Leo's dominant behavior when he is so much bigger is a mystery. I would like to believe Taiko just has a sense of humor about the situation, but it's more likely that when it comes to dogs, Mark Twain was right: "What counts is not necessarily the size of the dog in the fight - it's the size of the fight in the dog."

Preventing Attacks

The best way to prevent dog attacks is simple. CONTROL YOUR DOG. As easy as that sounds, you would be surprised how many owners don't have control over their dog. You can see this almost every day at the dog park.

You know the humans I'm talking about. They're the ones who call a dog's name twenty times before he responds. And even after the dog does responds, it is still a game of cat and mouse before they catch it.

On the other hand, there are those owners who know their dogs have aggression issues, but they let them off leash to run amuck anyway.

For example, one dog at a local park always charges at me whenever it sees me. The owner, while apologetic, excuses the dog's actions by stating that her dog doesn't like men. Fortunately. the dog has never bitten me—so far. But I should never have to face such a confrontation at all, nor would I if the dog were on a leash.

Now don't get me wrong, I do not believe dogs shouldn't be let off leash to run and play. I allow Taiko this freedom every chance I can. In fact, I think it's essential for dogs, and I'm a firm supporter of the local dog groups who want to keep San Francisco from closing the few dog friendly parks that still exist.

However, I also believe people need to be more responsible and that if their dog has a behavioral problem, even a minor one, they should never let them off leash in public. After all, their bad dog's behavior is what gets reported on the news, and that reflects poorly on every other, responsible dog owner.

A worse problem is people who do not properly secure their dog at home. Where I'm from in Louisiana, folks will often just leave them free to roam the front yard. Given the territorial nature of many dogs, that's just asking for problems.

Now, I live in an apartment one story off the ground; so Taiko's chances of escaping and becoming a public nuisance are almost zero. He would basically have to jump off the balcony and survive the fall.

Unfortunately, not every dog faces such obstacles. A majority of dog bite cases that make the news are about dogs that escaped from their homes and raised havoc in their neighborhood.

I'm not advocating that every dog owner who owns a home should have cage like the one pictured above. Nor am I advocating that dogs should be chained to a post.

All I'm suggesting is that every caution should be taken to make sure one's dog can't escape from the home. This means diligently checking that back and front yards have fences, and making sure windows and doors are secure at all times.

Of course, accidents do happen. And when they do learning the following information will be needed.

Basic Methods — Controlling Extreme Bad Behavior / Hostility

This section covers basic dog training methods. These methods are based on natural canine behaviors, which are taught in most dog obedience classes.

These are your first line of defense. They are intended to correct bad behavior before it gets out of hand. For the most part, this section is for the dog's owner, but can be utilized by anyone.

In order to do these techniques properly, one must remember that dogs do not communicate like humans. Besides various vocalizations, dogs use a variety of facial expressions, body language, and even olfactory stimulus to communicate. These are methods humans don't fully understand, and we humans cannot imitate.

When dogs fight, the fights are normally over very quickly. As ferocious as they may appear, they are normally more ritualistic in nature than violent. I'm not saying dogs don't inflict injuries on other dogs, or kill each other, but like most animal species, dogs seem to inherently understand that getting injured is not in their best interest for survival. So dogs rarely engage in prolonged life or death struggles.

According to Nobel Prize winning ethologist Konrad Lorenz, same species aggression in animals is always restrained, involving ritual, bluff, and violence of a non-lethal nature. Additionally, there are often "appeasement gestures" made by the losing animal, so that the winner will not follow through to the kill. Dogs, for instance, will present their bellies to an overwhelming attacker, which is a sign of submission that normally defuses the fury of this aggressor, thus ending the confrontation.

The dog on the ground, belly up, is being submissive. She assumed this posture while playing—most likely indicating things were getting to rough.

Unfortunately we humans don't instinctually know the necessary appeasement postures or non-verbal communication methods to stop a hostile dog from following through with his attack. This means the attack is prolonged and injuries can more severe.

This also means that one's actions when being approached by a dog with hostile intentions can be misinterpreted. What might be taken as a submissive movement or gesture between humans could be seen as a challenge to a dog.

The first, and most common, such type of gesture that comes to mind would be raising the arms forward like one is surrendering. For the human, the hands may raise for several reasons, such as to ward off the dog, or protect the face. Unfortunately the dog may interrupt the forward motion of the arms rising as a threat causing the dog to become even more aggressive and leap into action.

Another common mistake is trying to run away, which I've already mentioned. Not only will this tactic more than likely cause the dog to chase you, there is simply no way you can outrun the dog. Running just affords the dog a chance to attack from behind and knock you over.

Lastly, a major method of communication that should always be avoided is staring down a dog. Staring is considered bad doggy etiquette among canines, and for dogs it is a sign of aggression or hostile intent. In many cases, when a dog is fearful, nervous, or irritated, they will purposefully look away, basically just showing the whites of their eyes.

From the hostile dog's point of view, staring might appear as a challenge, and in their combative state might be just enough to push them over the edge.

Technique #1

This first technique is a classic that is taught at almost every dog obedience school. While not intended as a self-defense technique, it is taught in order to teach a dog not to jump up on someone.

The beauty of this technique is its simplicity. It is nothing more than a knee strike to the dog's chest, delivered at the moment the dog jumps towards you.

The only difference between the version of this technique designed to correct a bad behavior and one used for self-defense is the amount of power used. To make it more effective yet, one could aim for the dog's head/face instead of the chest.

Technique #2

Actually these are three techniques which are taught at most dog obedience schools. They are designed to address bad dog behavior such as aggressive play biting or for those rare times an owner has to reinforce his status as pack leader.

I only recommend them if the dog in question is acting totally unruly and you need to seriously correct his behavior before things get worse. These techniques are really about teaching a dog what is and what is not acceptable behavior, or about correcting serious insubordinate behavior when your dog no longer listens to verbal commands.

Since these techniques are based on behaviors dogs do to each other, one should not practice them on the family pet. They are considered very strict reprimands in canine society, and if done for no reason may stress out your dog, who will more than likely wonder what the hell he did to deserve such treatment—just like Taiko did when we took the below pictures.

Chin Tap — Minor Correction

Alpha dogs nip subordinates under the chin as corrections. You can use this technique by tapping (not striking) the dog under the chin. It should be like a quick "pop." Do not tap the muzzle as this can cause sever injury, or cause a dog to become hand shy.

Of course, in a self-defense situation, you should hit as hard as you can, and don't worry if you hit under the jaw, the muzzle, or the sides. While hitting a dog's skull will most likely hurt your hand more than the dog, his jaws can be injured moderately easily.

Cheek Grab — Moderate Correction

This method employs two corrections at once. The first is the grab and shake. The second is the stare down. It should also be used in conjunction with verbal commands.

Staring in dog society is an aggressive action, and alpha dogs will stare down subordinates to keep them in line. Alpha dogs will also chomp under a subordinate dogs' ears and shake. In dog society, if these corrections are not heeded, it will most likely lead to more serious violence.

While the grab may be useful to fend off a half-hearted attack, I would not recommend the staring for an agressive dog. Since it would be almost impossible for you to hold on to the dog's cheek for any period of time, one would only be placing their face in jeopardy.

In all honesty, this method is much better to use preemptively than once a dog becomes seriously aggressive and intent on biting. However, if the cheek grab is utilized during a self-defense situation, it should be immediately followed-up with a twisting motion designed to force the dog off balance and to the ground.

In a more serious scenario, where a lot of forward momentum is present, the dog should be forcefully pulled downwards towards the ground with the intention of slamming his lower jaw against the ground.

Alpha Roll (Pinning The Dog) — Major Correction

This final method utilizes three corrective measures at once: the stare, the cheek grab, and placing the dog on his back.

It is considered a major correction, since it places a dog in a position that exposes his neck and belly to attack. In dog society this position is considered a sign of submission; you will commonly see puppies and more timid dogs fall into this position when approached by more dominant or self-assured dog.

Lying on the back is also a major appeasement gesture when one dog realizes he has lost an altercation to another dog. He humbles himself so the winner will not go for the kill.

Over the years, I have seen many dominant minded dogs at the police academy and dog obedience school corrected this way. In every case the dog has changed their entire attitude.

Once again, this technique is more useful as a preemptive measure than it is once the dog is fully intent on attacking you or someone else. However, it's one of the best positions to try and do since it will clearly tell the dog you're the alpha—the boss dog&hdash;and he have to heed to your commands.

This is not a technique to try and do half-heartedly. In order to be effective, one will have to use a lot of force and be fully committed to using any means necessary to pin the dog.

An aggressive or headstrong dog will resist you every step of the way. If you fail to fully subjugate the dog, or the dog is extremely intent on exerting his dominance over you, you have now done nothing more than escalated the situation. This mean more serious techniques will now be needed.

Unfortunately, chances are that you will get bitten by a hostile dog when trying to do this technique. Grabbing for the dog's cheeks/head places your hands too close to the dog's mouth to avoid that risk. However, though being bitten will be painful, it can be used to your advantage.

In this example, the dog has already bitten and latched onto the arm. For the most part, the correction is the same as the above, except the arm is left in the mouth to aid in the pin. While painful, this will avoid further injury to other parts of the body. In addition, the arm is forced as far back into the dog's mouth as possible making it harder for the dog to bite down.

If the dog keeps kicking or trying to twist away, I would follow this up by straddling or sitting on top of the dog. For optimal results, try to keep the dog's legs away from your body (opposite of above photo). Dogs do have claws, and while not as sharp as cats', they can cause injuries. If things got really bad I would use my free hand to strike the dog, or my knees to kick the belly/ribs.

I would also suggest only using the stare if the dog settles down and submits once placed in this position. Otherwise, keep your face as far away from the dog's teeth as possible.

End Part 1

MUSA the Kendo Robot

2008-04-07T21:27:00.000-07:00

I’m sure this may be old news for a lot of our readers, but who can pass up making a few comments about a robot that does Kendo? I for one can’t wait to put one of these on my Christmas list.

MUSA, a 163cm tall, 70kg robot, was developed by the Manufacturing and Mechatronics Lab of Seoul National University. It was designed to help Kendokas become more proficient with their techniques.

According to Prof.Young-Bong Bang, who led this project, Musa uses sensors to defend and attack his opponents using traditional Kendo techniques. It is the goal of MUSA’s developers to one-day program MUSA to a third Dan level.

As I watched the below video I have to say this project is pretty interesting, though Musa seems to lack a little spontaneity. However, I can clearly see how such a robot could help one with their forms, and who knows what such a robot will be able to do in the future.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=PGzHpZVCEko

After watching MUSA wield what appears to be a katana, I couldn’t help think about Yul Brynner’s deranged robot gunslinger in the movie “Westworld.” I certainly wouldn’t want the liability of a sword-wielding robot in my dojo, even if the developers guarantee MUSA is programmed not to actually strike/injure his opponents.

Okay, a Kendo fighting robot may not be my first choice since I don’t practice Kendo, but until there is a robot that does Kenjutsu or Aiki and has great ukemei (falling) abilities, this robot will have to suffice. Of course ,I’m still hoping that some type of holodeck, as seen in Star Trek, is developed in my lifetime, but that might be just too much wishful thinking.

Until technology catches up with my desire, I guess I’ll just have to do things the old fashion way and use white belts. After all, many of them do move robotically.

Time Flies

2008-04-07T21:24:00.000-07:00

For those of you who might be regular readers of this blog, I want to assure you that Spencer and I have not abandoned it, and have every intention of posting a lot more material in the future. Unfortunately, there just doesn’t seem to be enough time in the day to do everything we want to get done, and due to the fact that work and family obligations our our priority posting new material has just taken a back seat to the rest of our lives.

Please bear with us during this respite, and rest assure more entries will be forthcoming.

The Second Top Ten Principles Of Yachigusa Ryu Aiki Bugei - #7 Coupling Principle

2008-03-14T21:43:00.000-07:00

Since I first stated that the techniques taught at my school were based on principles, and that we focus more on understanding the principles that makes things work than the techniques themselves, people have e-mailed me asking me if I could explain these principles in more detail.

Last year I spent several months writing about the “Top Ten Principles of Yachigusa Ryu Aiki Bugei.” Now it is time to cover the next ten most important principles. Of course, one must keep in mind that while these principles are officially less important than first ten, in actuality they are just as important. The truth is that in many cases understanding and executing them properly is essential in order to make the “top ten” fully effective. In other words, they are just another piece of a very complex puzzle illustrating how sceintific martial techniques really are.

Unfortunately, trying to explain many of these principals in writing is very difficult, since many can’t be explained in words alone. However, I will try my best to describe these principles for the “blog” readers, using words, charts and pictures.

Keep in mind though, that in order to sometimes fully understand a principle you have to also understand other principles that relate to it. Most principles aren’t fully useable on their own, and have to be integrated with others.

COUPLING PRINCIPLE

Generally, coupling means a mechanical connection between two things. In physics, two systems are coupled if they mutually interact. There is another definition from computer programming that also seems appropriate to the art I teach: coupling is a linkage between two parts of a program such that if one part of the program is modified, the behavior of the other part may also be affected.

Basically, the coupling principle is the concept that once a connection is made between two or more bodies, whatever action one body makes will have a direct effect on the other bodies.

In other words, one plus one equals one.

For example, the square and circle below represent two individual objects:

If you move the circle, that movement has absolutely no effect on the square:

Now, let's say you drive a stick into both the square and circle so they are connected to each other. They are now “coupled.”

If you push the circle down, the square will move also. In this example, the movement will be in the opposite direction as the objects rotate around their common center of mass.

Because they are “coupled,” whatever movement one object makes will affect the other. This is even more apparent when the connection point is rigid, as it is here. Needless to say, this is a crude example of a much more complex principle; but it explains the science that makes this principle work better than any other I can think of, at least in this format.

Maybe a simpler way of thinking about the “Coupling Principle,” is something many of us do outside the dojo--walking a dog on leash.

When I take my dog for a walk on the street we are “coupled” by his leash. Although there is no direct physical connection between our bodies--my hand is not touching the dog--by moving my end of his six foot leash in the proper direction, I can make my dog go left, right, or forward. Or I can make him stop and sit, down.

I don’t have to use verbal commands. If I adjust the tension on the leash the right way, because of proper training my dog knows what he is suppose to do--unless of course he sees a squirrel or a cat, then I’m on the receiving end of the commands and being dragged down the street.

What’s important to understand with this example is that I’m not using verbal commands. He is responding to non-verbal communication through our couple. My dog reacts to the movements I make that affect the leash.

In this example, my dog he has been trained to respond a certain way to specific movements. But if I don’t move the leash correctly he gets confused and does not know what to do. My movements must be right to get him to behave the way I desire him to.

This is an important factor to remember because one’s opponent in a fight has received no training at all. This means when you use the “Coupling Principle,” your non-verbal communication--in this case “body language”--has to be specific, otherwise the other person’s body won't know how to respond to your directions.

The basic rule one needs to remember about this principle is that once you’re coupled, any movement, no matter how subtle, has a direct impact on your opponent. Even rotating the head at the wrong moment can move one’s opponent inches off their original position. This is one reason why so many martial art styles emphasize the theory of “no wasted motion.”

Avoiding wasted motion is even more important when practitioners try to execute projections (throws), especially projections that rely on exacting alignments. Sometimes even the slightest, almost imperceptible movement can have drastic consequences.

This of course means that in order to execute the “Coupling” Principle at the higher levels one must learn “cause and effect.” In other words, one must know exactly what wll happen when any given part of the body is moved.

Example: Rear Shoulder Projection

Photo 1 – Two individuals with no connection to each other.

Photo 2 – As the uke (attacker) grabs the tori (defender) they become coupled. Even though the point of contact is small (tip of shoulder) a connection is made and tori can affect the ukes’ centerline.

Photo 3 – The tori lifts his shoulder (the shoulder only) and rotates slightly to the rear by rotating at the waist. Since both subjects are coupled, the lift and rotation pushes the uke off balance to his rear. If done correctly, uke’s hips come forward, creating a hole for the uke to fall into.

Photo 4 – The tori continues his rotation to the rear until the uke is totally off balance.
The shoulder is then quickly dropped straight downward causing the uke to fall into the space that was created during photo #3.

In addition, one must also learn the differences such things as turning the hand versus turning the forearm versus rotating the upper arm can cause. Try it; you’ll be surprised at the results.

Example

Photo 1 – Uke grabs tori by the wrist.

2. Tori rotates his forearm (forearm only) towards the ukes’ arm. Since the tori and uke are coupled at the wrist, the rotation of the forearm causes the uke to come forward and downward. Note how the uke’s wrist has rotated around the forearm. (See below photos.) Also note that nothing has moved from the original position. The only movement was the rotation, everything else remained the same.

Learning all of these intricacies of controlling an opponent through coupling can take years, if not a lifetime to fully master. Add this complexity to the fact that in a real life or death fight numerous movements are taking place within milliseconds, each with the potential to change how one must apply the “coupling principle,” and one can start to see how difficult utilizing this principle actually is.

Fortunately, many of these issues are addressed in the techniques most of us are taught, though one must keep in mind that techniques taught in class often tend to illustrate ideal situations. That’s not a bad thing; it just means it pays to experiment. Nothing beats trial and error.

Oh, and if all of that isn’t difficult enough: how about coupling techniques that involve weaponry? Yes, even that sword on sword blocking action observed in so many styles is a form of coupling, which if the practitioner is skilled enough can be used to create a projection.

Just one more facet to think about.

The Second Top Ten Principles Of Yachigusa Ryu Aiki Bugei - #6 Marriage to Gravity

2008-01-28T09:03:00.000-08:00

MARRIAGE TO GRAVITY

When I started training with Yachigusa Sensei, 30 plus years ago, he would yell at me all the time about my posture. I was always either too slouchy or too rigid, too soft, or too hard. I leaned too much this way or that way. It seemed no matter what I did, or how hard I tried, my posture was never good enough.

Yachigusa Sensei would yell, he would scream, and he would even forcibly move me into the proper position--and I mean forcibly, with whatever he happened to have in his hands at the time, which was often a wooden cane.

Unfortunately for me no matter what he did to correct my posture during my first years, none of it seemed to work, at least from his perspective.

Now, I don’t know if my problems with posture were due to my age, the fact I didn’t understand Japanese and he spoke terrible English, my poor coordination, or if Yachigusa Sensei expected instant perfection; but things must have really gotten bad because the next thing I knew I was doing all my solo techniques with a book balanced on my head.

If you’ve never tried this, it can become quite frustrating very quickly-especially if there are consequences when the book falls. These consequences were usually harsh and unpleasant. However, balancing a book on your head is a great training tool, and after several long months of “book learning” the frequency of posture related yelling decreased.

I had slowly, unwittingly, been introduced to the principle of “Marriage to Gravity.”

After my teacher’s death, I started to attend various seminars where numerous Aikido, Jujutsu, and Judo practitioners often accused me of being extremely rigid. In other words they couldn’t capture my center, displace me, or project me. Of course, instead of examining their technical ability, they just assumed I was countering them. In a way they were partially right, but I didn’t do it intentionally. Without even realizing it, I had learned to spontaneously apply the principle of “Marriage to Gravity.”

I guess all of Yachigusa Sensei’s lambasting paid off.

Over the years I have heard this principle described in numerous ways, ranging the gamut from the supernatural to the scientific. Its been called things such as sticking, grounding, rooting, sinking, and even body dropping.

It is clear that this principle is done in numerous martial art styles, and from my experience every teacher who tries to explain it does so in a distinct, often stylistic manner. Unfortunately, these stylistic approaches often perpetuate myths and tricks over true technique.

This is a trick often used to show one’s ability to “root.”
I won't explain here how it is done, but it has to do with physics, not Chi.
My student had five minutes of instruction before he posed for the photo, and was able to do the technique fairly well. With some practice he could fool a lot of people with his “mystical powers.”

Another famous trick to show one’s rooting ability.
Once again it’s all about physics, not Chi.
This technique is a little harder to learn than the one above.

Often the ancient mystical explanations for this principle, especially those propagated in Chinese arts, are exquisite and definitely appeal to many people’s desire to transcend normality via some ancient “secret.”

However, as much as I can respect these peoples’ desires and beliefs, I’ll forgo the usual metaphysical explanation--which normally relates to externalizing ones’ Chi and projecting said energy into he ground thus rooting a person to the earth--for something a little more tangible.

Basically, the principle of “Marriage to Gravity” refers to a postural alignment that unifies one with their centerline. It is nothing more than having the skill to align the feet and torso in a manner were force is transferred efficiently into the ground, allowing for maximum balance and stability.

Yes, you guessed it…. It’s all related to posture.

A major difference between the principle of Marriage to Gravity,” and methods often referred to as “Rooting,” is that “Marriage to Gravity” is not static. The principle applies to both bodies at rest, and bodies moving at full speed. Though I’ll be the first to admit, one is easier to do than the other.

To be honest teaching this principle is not easy. It takes a lot of time, and one on one interaction. Having taught for over fifteen years now, I can clearly see how frustrating it must have been for Yachigusa Sensei to teach me this, especially with the language barrier between us.

I know I’ve experienced times where students have simply driven me crazy, and I’ve felt I must be explaining things in some foreign language they can’t comprehend. While I’ve never resorted to striking any of them, (okay, one or two), many have endured the ancient “Yachigusa Ryu Book” method of training.

Unfortunately, I can’t think of any way to teach this principle in this medium. Like I said, it takes a lot of one on one interaction to get people to do it right. Even practicing this principle in front of a mirror is inadvisable since moving the head to see oneself can often change alignments.

While I can’t teach this principle in writing, I can give some anatomical background, guidelines, and a few things for readers to try.

1. Basic Posture Rules

Standing – Normal Posture

Always hold your head straight with your chin in. The head should never tilt in any direction.
Keep your shoulder blades back.
Keep your knees straight.
Tuck your stomach in but do not tilt your pelvis forward.
The arches of your feet should always be supported.

Martial Posture

Always hold your head straight with your chin in. The head should never tilt in any direction. The head only moves split seconds before any turning action.
Keep your shoulder blades back, yet relaxed.
Keep your knees straight. Straight does not mean locked-out. There should actually be some give, an almost sinking sensation towards the ground. Just make sure your knee never ever passes the toes when moving; that puts a lot of strain in your knees.
Tuck your stomach in but do not tilt your pelvis forward. Hips and waist should always be over the weight bearing foot.
The arches of your feet should always be supported. One method I employ which is related to the principle of Marriage to Gravity, is placing my weight on three points of each foot. These points are the base of the big toe, the inner part of the ball of the foot, and the inside side of the heal portion of the foot. I then think about pushing the ground with these three points, concentrating my focus on the ball of the foot area.

At first, when this is done correctly one should feel their thigh muscles doing a substantial amount of work to maintain stability. That feeling should go away with training. However once this is learned, one’s stability should feel stronger.

Another benefit with this type of stance is that one will be able to execute stronger and faster turning motions. This has to do with the nature of the stance itself, which controls the action of the thigh muscles, which in turn control the upper torso.

A point to remember is that the thigh muscles don’t really have the ability to rotate without moving a least one foot. If you don’t believe that try executing a proper round kick without shifting the foot.

2. Balance

Balance is something we humans use all the time, but literally take for granted until we lose it. After all, good balance is necessary in order to independently perform acts of daily living and to avoid constantly falling down and injuring ourselves.

The definition of “balance,” is "the ability to maintain and control the position and motion of the total center of body mass relative to the base of support."

Sound familiar?

It should. However, in martial arts, this is often described more metaphysically. From a martial arts perspective, this center of mass is normally located three finger widths down from the belly button, and referred to as the tanden in Japanese and dantian in Chinese, and is the equivalent to the Hara of Buddhism.

This point is regarded as the spiritual center of man, where all psychic and physical forces are centered. The Hara is the point where “Chi” (life energy) is located--“Chi” being the essential energy to perform martial art techniques quickly and efficiently.

The importantce of the human balance system is that it helps your body maintain equilibrium on an automatic basis. Keep in mind that the human frame is inherently unstable since 2/3 of our mass is located 2/3 of our body height above the ground. Even the normal act of walking is a constant state of falling and regaining balance.

In order to maintain balance the “Human Balance System” consists of three parts. They are:

Vestibular System (inner ear) – This is the most important element of human balance. The main function of the vestibular system is maintaining balance (posture and equilibrium) by monitoring the motion of the head and stabilizing the eyes relative to the surround environment.

Within the inner ear are three canals that contain a gel-like liquid called endolymph and tiny hair cells. When both inner ears are working properly they give the brain information through the central nervous system about linear and angular positions of the body with respect to gravity.
Visual system (depth, velocity, and motion perception) – Input from the eyes sends the brain information about the position of the body relative to other objects, their depth, velocity and motion. In addition, the eyes work in conjunction with the ears to maintain balance, as well as maintain clear vision during movements. The inner ear continuously sends impulses that adjust your eyes in coordination to the smallest movement of the body.

Somatic Sensory or Somatosensory System) – This system provides the brain with two valuable pieces of internal and external spatial information that helps maintain balance. These two systems are called, proprioception and exteroception.
- Proprioception – Propriceptors are internal sensors in the body that give the central nervous system information about the movement of body parts in relation to other parts of the body. With out such a system it would be impossible to put food in your mouth without visually watching your hand move from the plate to your mouth.
- Exteroception - Exteroceptors are pressure sensors located in your feet and hands that provide external spatial information about the topography of the ground or support surface.

Evaluating Your Balance

This is a basic test to see what your current state of balance is. Start by standing upright, arms to your side. Now while looking forward raise one foot up without touching the supporting leg. Hold this position for as long as you can without tilting or losing stability. Failure occurs when your upper body starts tilting, your foot drops, your raised foot touches supporting leg, you hop, or your drop your foot to the ground.

Now repeat this test with your eyes closed. To make this test a little more complicated, try extending your arms to the side and touching your nose with your index finger--sort of like the field sobriety tests police officers give to see if you’re driving under the influence.

The importance of this simple exercise is manifold. First of all, being on one leg is less stable than two, thus requiring precise body mechanics to remain upright without tilting or swaying. Secondly, one must learn to properly align the base foot in order to press against the ground and provide the strength to remain stable (the Marriage to Gravity element). Lastly, a clear focus and concentration is required to maintain control over the body, and its natural instinct to fall over.

Remember the movie “The Karate Kid?”
Well Mr. Miyagi had a reason to make Daniel-san do that silly crane stance.
It was all about improving Daniel-san’s balance.

3. Stance (Static Posture)

Any stance refers to a method of “placement.” “Placement” is an orientation based on the flex of the feet, knees and hips, as well as associated body weight distribution. A simple rule to follow is that one should always point their hips and waist in the same direction as the toes of their weight-bearing leg.

This rule is simple to test. Start by assuming a long stance, a common stance found in many martial art styles where 40% of the weight is on the back leg and 60% is on the front leg.

Once in long-stance rotate your hips and waist in the direction of your back leg. How stable do you feel? If you think you have sufficient stability, try having someone push you backwards. Do not have them push hard, just enough to see if you lose stability.

Now do another long-stance, and this time rotate your hips and waist over the front leg. How stable do you feel? You should be able to feel a difference. Once again after you feel you are stable, have someone push you with the same power as before. There should be a major difference in how quickly and easily you can be pushed off balance.

Now try this same test with other postures (stances) for your particular style. You should get the same results.

4. Movement / Force

The first guideline has to do with body mechanics. Body mechanics are essentially posture in motion used to gain power. The purpose of utilizing proper body mechanics is to maximize applicable forces by taking advantage of the principles of physics as it relates to the structure of the human body.

When I teach my students I look for specific things. I look to see what muscles they utilize to accomplish a particular movement. Are they tense, or are they too relaxed? Is their weight distributed correctly, allowing for ease of movement? I check to see what muscles are utilized, over utilized, or under utilized.

In order to use the “Marriage to Gravity” principle when moving, one must first learn to use it statically. The next step is to learn to move one step at a time, utilizing the static form between each step. This progression is continued until the practitioner can make a series of movements and instantly stop with out having to make any adjustments in their posture. It can be a tedious process.

Of course, it is essential when learning this that one pays careful attention to their movements, and learns to feel how their body shifts. Maintaining complete control of ones body’s movements is also essential since one must learn override their body’s natural instincts. This means training the body to do what you want it to do, not what it wants to do, or what feels the most comfortable.

Remember we humans are basically lazy creatures and if given the choice are bodies will normally do what’s easiest. This means our bodies slouch rather than stand erect. We sit instead of stand. We walk instead of run. You get the idea.

Keep in mind that fighting is motion, and that having the ability to maintain one’s body mechanics is essential. Without proper body mechanics, it is impossible to deliver full force strikes, project one’s opponents, and maintain stability against the incoming force from one’s attacker.

Hopefully, the above four items aid anyone in examining this topic further. For the most part all of the components are fairly basic. The difficulty is putting them all together. But nothing worth doing is ever easy.

Just keep in mind that the basic tenet of the principle “Marriage to Gravity,” is to instill proper body posture. With proper body posture martial techniques can be executed with more power and speed. A martial arts practitioner is more stable making them harder to unbalance and project. Most of all overall effectiveness and efficiency are greatly increased.

Learning this principle is not easy, but it worth all of the effort.

K-9 Self-Defense

2008-01-10T00:21:00.000-08:00

In the February 2008 issue of Black Belt Magazine there is an article titled, “Karate Vs Canines,” written by Loren W. Christensen. I’m sure many readers, such as I, initially chuckled at the thought of such an article, but this is a topic rarely discussed and worth reading about.

My initial reaction to this article was based more on the title itself, and the image it evokes of a karate-ka sparring with a dog. Fortunately, this article is a serious presentation on the topic, and offers the reader some actual techniques intended to teach people how to defend against/survive a dog attack. While Mr. Christensen’s article is only six photo-heavy pages of basic information, I believe the article is worth reading, especially for someone without any knowledge on the topic.

It’s is especially worth reading when one considers the following statistics:

There are currently 74.8 million dogs in the USA.
A survey by the national Centers for Disease Control and Prevention in Atlanta concluded that dogs bite nearly 2% of the U.S. population, which equals more than 4.7 million people annually.
- 61% of bites occur around the home (reported cases)
- 77% of bites involve a family member or family friend (reported cases)
Almost 800,000 bites per year -- one out of every 6 -- are serious enough to require medical attention.
Between 2001 and 2006, 144 deaths were attributed to dog attacks (National Canine Research Foundation).

Mr. Christensen’s article is fairly basic, something unfortunately prevalent with articles throughout the pages of Black Belt Magazine. I am sure that he has a far greater knowledge of the subject since he claims to have been a US Army Dog handler for 14 months, and I would have to believe he learned a lot more about dog attacks and how to protect himself from them. After all, it’s not unusual for a K-9 handler to be bitten by their own dog--something Mr. Christensen readily admits happened to him--other service dogs, or the random civilian canine they are requested to deal with due to their supposed expertise with canines.

In addition, my assertion that Mr. Christensen’s article provides only basic information is based on my limited exposure to police canines and police canine training (about a year). One of the first things I was taught was how to deal with an aggressive dog. Information I know was not covered in Mr. Christensen’s article. Furthermore, I was also given several long safety lectures, with specific self-defense methods, before donning the padded suit one wears when they help train attack dogs. I’ll be the first to state that these methods are almost impossible to execute during a dog attack, though they are effective in theory.

The dog attacks I experienced were extremely brutal and swift. All I ever saw were charging teeth, and the dogs (German Shepherds, Bouvier Des Flanders, and Belgian Malinois) hit with so much force that there was no way to maintain my balance and/or counter their attack with any sufficient force. Add the pain factor of the jaw pressure, and the fact that the dog is constantly moving in ways people don’t, and the whole ordeal is quite dumbfounding.

Fortunately the dogs I worked with were all highly trained, and only attacked specific body parts (normally the forearm), which made protecting one's other body parts easier. That is, I didn’t have to worry about being bitten in the face, neck, or other more damageable parts of the body, which is a real concern when being attacked by an aggressive canine intent on hurting you.

The canine attacks I experienced were extremely controlled drills, but they clearly illustrated the lethal potential a dog could inflict if a dog had the intent to hurt someone. Unlike many humans, when these dogs attacked, they were rarely distracted by any actions one made to fend them off, and their intent to bite and pull their opponent to the ground never wavered. The attack was straight on, full force, unrelenting, with no remorse.

The truth is, once the dog was done and had been commanded to stop, they pranced off wagging their tail like nothing out of the ordinary ever took place. In fact they looked pretty proud of themselves.

The police force was not my first exposure to K-9 self-defense either. My first
K-9 self-defense came, from my uncle who used to raise hunting dogs (Bluetick Coonhounds). My uncle needed these skills since he was often dealing with the “pack mentality.” He was fully aware that if one dog attacked the others would join in.

Since being attacked by the pack would most likely be deadly, he knew several places to hit a dog that would instantly incapacitate them. I’m not proud to admit it, but I’ve tried a few of them--light force only--and they work. Just ask any of the three German Shepherds that I’ve owned.

Of course at this point, I most likely find myself in the same situation Mr. Christensen found himself in. That position being that if we share such techniques publicly every dog lover and/or animal rights activist will be up in arms and condemning us for doing so.

For now. I don’t feel the desire or necessity to share such information publicly, so I’ll close this blog entry by referring to an e-book Mr. Christensen offers for sale on the Internet; “Self-Defense Against A Dog Attack,” by Loren W. Christensen at http://www.lwcbooks.com/books/ebookdog.html While I have not read this book so cannot endorse its contents, hopefully the information contained in it will be a little more in depth.

* * *

Loren Christensen, is a 42-year veteran of the martial arts. He has learned the hard way that real fights are far more explosive and violent than karate sparring matches, a lesson proven over and over during his 25-year career as a police officer in Portland, Oregon and a military policeman in Saigon, Vietnam . He has earned a total of 10 black belts – seven in karate, two in jujitsu and one in arnis – and penned 34 books, 6 DVDs and dozens of magazine articles on the topics of the martial arts, street gangs, police-involved shootings, exercise, prostitution and various street subcultures.

Nage Waza Seminar

2007-12-30T23:36:00.000-08:00

On Sunday Jan 13th 2008 Victor Anderson will teach a Nage Waza (Projection/Throwing Techniques) seminar at the Yachigusa Ryu Dojo.

This seminar is open to anyone interested in attending.

The cost for the seminar is free, but donations for the sushi dinner we will take Victor to after class will gladly be accepted.

Victor Anderson began his Kodokan Judo training in 1960 in Hayward, CA. Since then he has trained on both the West and East coast as well as Texas. Mr. Anderson also studied judo in Korea and Panama. He has been the head instructor at two military judo clubs, Ft. Hood, TX, and Ft. Belvior, VA. Mr. Anderson has placed in the national master's tournament in 1994 and 1996. He has also studied Shudokan Karate, Korean Hopkido, and Chinese boxing. Mr. Anderson has trained U.S. Military Police in unarmed combat. He has also attended three seminars given by Mr. Rick Clark on the use of pressure points. Mr. Anderson holds a national level coach certificate from U.S. Judo and is a nationally certified judo referee. While Mr. Anderson is well practiced in judo as a sport, he also studies judo as a martial art. He continually strives to refine his understanding of the application of Kodokan Judo to unarmed combat.

Date:
Sunday January 13th, 2008

Time:
Starts at 9:30 AM
*Warm-up time 9:00

Location:
Yachigusa-Ryu Aiki Bugei
3440 20th Street San Francisco, CA 94110

Phone:
415-821-1902

Holiday Schedule

2007-12-13T17:45:00.000-08:00

This is just a reminder to all Yachigusa Ryu students that the school will be closed during the following dates:

Saturday December 22, 2007
to
Wednesday January 02, 2008

During the holidays the entire Moro family wants to wish you and yours a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
Best wishes!

James Williams's Perspective on Martial Arts

2007-12-13T16:42:00.000-08:00

James Williams of Nami Ryu Aiki Heiho and Bugei Trading Company has written an essay worth a glance as a response to a message-board argument with neo-traditional martial purists (but skip the comments). It is available at http://www.e-budo.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38601.

In many ways, the content of what he has written is much less interesting than the language he has used. It is based on the language of Western honor, that would once have been familiar to any fighter in our culture, but now seems reactionary. For example:

'[Writing on the Internet] gives you the feeling that you have a "right" to express your opinion with no consequence. This of course removes the foundations of courtesy and respect. It becomes about how you “feel”.'

In the end, this is not an argument about our culture, not about anything Japanese. I really believe that Mr. Williams is representing traditional Western martial values of honor and individuality, and is using his experience with Japanese culture to better understand that. While what he is arguing against is very modern (or possibly, though I hate the word, postmodern) values of cultural sensitivity and nostalgia.

November 11, 2007 – The Newest Addition

2007-11-13T12:59:00.000-08:00

After 40 plus hours of labor Shirly and Gary Moro are proud to announce the birth of Zachary Jarrett Moro. Born 11-11-07 @ 1215 hrs; 8 lbs; 20 inches long.

(10 minutes old)

Zachary – Hebrew - Meaning – “The Lord Remembers”
Jarrett – Germanic – Meaning – “The Strength of the Spear”

(Mama and baby finally meet face to face)

(After first bath)

(Time to end a very long day)

Mother and baby doing very well, but since the delivery was via a cesarean section both mom and baby will spend the next four days in the hospital.

Depending on how things go at the hospital classes may or may not be cancelled next week. Thanks for understanding.

Hands always push...an iaito

2007-10-28T22:52:00.000-07:00

The Electronic Journal of Martial Arts and Sciences recently published a very well written article about the distinction between "pushing" and "pulling" when drawing a sword in the art of iaido. The article is available here.

While sword drawing is a very different facet of martial arts from jujutsu, this article sheds a lot of light on the aiki principle of "hands always push" that we often talk about in our art.

Often times, we will perform an arm movement during a technique that seems like a pull, but is better described as a push. This article does an excellent job of clarifying how the mechanics can be different when one visualizes a push instead of a pull.

[I've been meaning to put this up for a while now. To apologize to our readership, both Gary and I have had hectic lives recently, leaving writing and editing unattended.]

Black Belt Magazine Article Review -“Deadly Weapons”

2007-09-25T23:00:00.000-07:00

I have been a subscriber to Black Belt Magazine for over 20 years. Through those years I’ve seen the magazine evolve, and change along with the various “flavors of the month.”

For the most part, I approach Black Belt Magazine as if it were a Hollywood gossip magazine. There are lots of articles and photos, but little or nothing of substance. It’s basically throne room reading, if you get my gist.

More often than not, articles are poorly written, show bias, and really offer nothing new content-wise. In fact, if you look at many of the authors or who they are writing about, they are often the same people who purchase major ad space in the magazine. But I’m sure that’s just a coincidence.

What really irritates me, even often perplexes the hell out of me, is how often Black Belt Magazine asserts something new and revolutionary has been discovered or created by so-and-so-bigwig. Ninety-nine percent of the time, these articles turn out to be nothing new or innovative at all. For a publication specializing in martial arts, they should just know better.

However for all the magazine’s faults, every now and then they do produce something of value and worth reading.

In this instance it’s a two-part article titled, “Deadly Weapons,” by Scott Marrs and Andy McGill, which appears in the August and September 2007 issues.

Basically, the articles are written to inform people how the law really views the martial arts, the liability of combatants, self-defense issues, and how hands and feet are viewed as deadly weapons.

While I feel the articles are too short to do full justice to the topic, the authors did a good job answering a lot of questions martial artists may have about the law. Certainly, this is one of the few occasions where I’ve seen these questions--man of which I’m asked in class--covered to any extent. It’s also nice to see someone actually addressing known fallacies, and setting the record straight.

I, for one, feel it is extremely important to teach my students the law as it relates to using martial art skills, even in a life and death situation. This is especially important given the fact that any civil suit filed regarding possible excessive force has the potential to include me, as the teacher of those skills.

Unfortunately, very few schools discuss martial arts and the law. As a result there is a lot of misinformation out there. I can’t start to tell you how many times I’ve been asked if my hands are really registered as deadly weapons.

I know I will encourage my students to read this article. Not because we haven’t covered most of this material in class already, but just so they can get another perspective on the material.

I also recommend anyone involved in the martial arts should also read it. However, like the authors state, “Don’t’ rely on this article as legal advice. The jurisdiction in which you live may have different laws and standards than discussed here.”

View the article in PDF format: Part 1, Part 2.

A Review Of The Yanagi Ryu Aiki Bugei Seminar 09/23/07

2007-09-25T22:52:00.000-07:00

Every year in April I look forward to Mr. Angier’s trip to the S.F. Bay Area and the seminar he teaches. This year that seminar didn’t happen, and for a while my students and I played with the idea of hosting him ourselves. Unfortunately, we came to the conclusion that financially and logistically that just wasn’t possible. In the end we just decided to wait until next year and hoped for the best.

Luckily for us, it turned out that a seminar was then scheduled for the weekend of September 22 and September 23. While attending both days wasn’t possible due to prior commitments (mainly that my wife is now over 7 months pregnant), we looked forward to attending the seminar and learning some new things. Or should I say, we to learning new methods/concepts that with some further study/practice can aid in the overall effectiveness of the techniques I teach.

Clearly, we missed a lot by not attending Saturday’s seminar; it appears a lot of information related to making proper "hand shapes" to attack and lock up one’s opponent’s skeletal structure, and the principle of “Back Pressure” was covered.

I for one would have certainly welcomed the information on the different types of hand positions one must use to affect one’s opponent, since that is clearly something I don’t know enough about. While I may apply such methods already in certain circumstances, sometimes without even realizing it, I currently lack the ability to explain what I’m doing or why it has to be done in such a manner.

It’s information such as that which is invaluable in these seminars. I have come to the realization that there are only a few instructors that truly can teach it. Mr. Angier is one instructor I know has the ability to do that, and the ability to teach it in a manner that--if one pays enough attention--will give a practitioner some basic information to study the topic on their own in more depth.

Learning more about the principle of Back Pressure would also have been great, especially after writing about the topic on this blog. While I’m comfortable with what I wrote, and the accuracy of the information presented in that essay, I know there is still much more to learn about it, and I’m sure that essay will be revised in the future.

While my students and I missed some valuable stuff on Saturday, Sunday’s seminar was still worth attending, even if the class was clearly designed to review material covered the day before.

As is often the case when attending a Yanagi Ryu seminar, it’s hard to describe what we actually did, and I would be lying if I said at this point I understand all the subtleties of the movement within the forms/techniques we did. Then again I don’t go to a Yanagi Ryu seminar to learn “techniques.” I go there to learn the science behind them, and why moving this way or that way makes things work better.

I go to these seminars to correct bad habits, expose myself to new concepts/ideas, and gain further insight to my own art. And yes, I did gain some insights on Sunday, mainly by carefully watching Mr. Angier demonstrate things on various people. By watching his movements, at least the ones that are observable, and listening to his explanations I can honestly say I have a lot of new information to ponder.

In my opinion the fact that Mr. Angier gets me thinking and investigating what I do in more detail, as well as visualizing the potential I could achieve with further study and discipline, is as I’ve stated countless times more valuable than the techniques taught.

As anyone who has been involved in any profession or hobby for any real length of time knows, we all go through bouts of “burnout” from time to time--periods where we feel we've hit a dead end, or the mountain before us is too steep to climb. No matter how self-motivated we may be, sometimes these feelings can be overwhelming. Its at these times where we need a little something to rejuvenate are enthusiasm, and that’s what these Yanagi Ryu seminars do for me. That’s why I look forward to them every year.

Lastly, some folks who recognized me from this “blog” had nothing but good things to say about the information I’ve presented. While I don’t write this blog in order to impress others or to have them validate me, it’s very nice to hear the positive feedback. I did appreciate all the comments, and the fact that many of you stated you you’ve been loyal readers since the blog started.

Audio Interview of Gary Moro

2007-08-31T10:31:00.000-07:00

The folks at the "Psychjourney Audio Book Club" have put up a podcast interview with Yachigusa Ryu's Gary Moro for their "Warrior Traditions" series (alternate).

The interview is a two hour(!) conversation mostly centered around what it means to be a warrior in the modern world, as is the theme of the series. The topic also wanders around aspects of Gary's own training, how he now trains students at our school, and his experiences as a police officer among other things.

The interview can be found here or here. An mp3 file can be directly downloaded here.

Part two will be forthcoming later.

In The Company of “Thieves”

2007-08-30T00:58:00.000-07:00

“Talent borrows, Genius Steals”

Unknown

Several months ago I was publicly accused of “stealing” martial art techniques/concepts from Don Angier. Per the “Martial Arts Police, Koryu Division,” my case is still pending, though they did as much as they could to convict me in the court of public appeal.

Clearly, old news is old news. But ever since these public accusations were made, I been considering things in the light of the old Biblical proverb which states, “Let he who's without sin cast the first stone.”

What I mean by that is that almost every martial artist before me, most of my contemporaries, and yes even those that made accusations against me are all guilty of such a crime to some extent or another. We all are the sum of many parts. We all take bits and pieces away from the various teachers we have had the ability to train with. Whether that training was long term, or just a few seminars doesn’t matter.

Now, I’m a firm believer that no one individual, no matter how gifted, knows everything. Because I believe this so strongly, I have taken every opportunity to expose myself to numerous martial art systems and teachers. I have especially tried find teachers who have the ability to make me understand the art that I do better, and make me an overall better teacher and practitioner.

But back to my point.
.

A Chain of Yoshidas

Since I’ve been accused of “stealing principles” from Don Angier, I'd like to use the same absurd logic to see whom else I’ve stolen from. While we are at it, let's go another step and see whom they "stole" their knowledge from.

Let's start with Don Angier.

Now, I have already stated numerous times how big an influence Mr. Angier has had on me, and what I do as a martial artist. I’ve clearly admitted to adopting a lot of his terminology, and adjusting/correcting some of my techniques based on his corrections. Maybe too much in some people’s opinions. However, that is not a crime that is called “good judgment.” His skills and knowledge is clearly superior to mine.

But where did Mr. Angier get his information.

While I don’t have specific details about his life and training, according to his very own autobiography he writes:

“Bill (William Hepler) worked graveyard shift at the main Los Angeles Post Office. For almost nine years he came into the dojo three hours before class. Together we worked on categorizing the basics of the art and how to make them as precise as possible. We worked out pragmatic counters to all of the forms and counters to the counters. It was only with his help that I was able to systematize the art and start listing its scientific principles.”

“My Career in Yanagi-ryu Aiki Jiu Jitsu” by Don Angier

Mr. Angier further states:

“Slowly, he (Ark-Yuey Wong) began showing me some of his skills. It would be very easy to underestimate this mild-looking, elderly man. He was indeed a wonderful man and artist, and I must admit that some of the things he showed me helped me understand my own art more fully.”

“My Career in Yanagi-ryu Aiki Jiu Jitsu” by Don Angier

Now it’s my understanding, and forgive me if I am wrong, that Mr. Angier also studied martial arts with other instructors in Japan and Los Angeles. If this is true, and his own statements about his life are factual (which I’m sure they are), then Mr. Angier’s art is a sum of various sources. He did not get all of the art he now teaches, or at least all the insights into that art, from one source. In fact he clearly states, “We worked out pragmatic counters to all of the forms and counters to the counters. It was only with his help that I was able to systematize the art and start listing its scientific principles,” which shows a progression and departure from what he was originally taught.

Like many of us, Mr. Angier sought out others who could help him better understand the core information he had. As I have, he used the information he gathered to make himself better.

However, I don’t hear anyone accusing him of thievery. I don’t see anyone questioning where he obtained the sum of his knowledge. But maybe he is just an exception, or perhaps he is just above reproach.

Of course, Mr. Angier’s approach to improving himself via other sources isn’t unique, even within the particular martial art style he teaches. Yoshida Kotaro (1883-1966), the father of Mr. Angier’s teacher, Yoshida Kenji (1903-1954), was skilled in more than one style of martial arts. Not only did he teach Daito Ryu to the public, he was also known to have denso (transmission scrolls) in several different arts. He possessed technical skills in Kito Ryu Jujutsu and Onno-ha Itto Ryu Kenjutsu, which I’ve read were evident in his public teachings.

I have no idea if any one can say with any certainty what influences one martial arts style had upon any other for Yoshida Koatro, but his history shows a certain level of cross training and exploration. Clearly, he saw the value of training with various other instructors, who must have had something worthy to offer him.

Since Yoshida Kotaro took the time and effort to train with others, I think it would be very hard to believe that he didn’t embrace and incorporate new methodologies or concepts he felt were more effective and efficient than what he previously possessed.

Nor would it be beyond the realm of possibility that over the years he incorporated other methodologies into his core base as his abilities and comprehension of scientific principles improved.

However, I’m sure there is no one out there that would accuse Yoshida Kotaro of theft. Nor in my opinion should they.

Small Circles

So how about all the insights I gained from training with Wally Jay.

Prof. Jay was never my instructor, but I did attend numerous seminars he gave. I also have his books, and a video, which I’ve read and watched countless times.

I’m no Small-Circle Jujutsu expert, but I believe I understand the concepts Prof. Jay taught. I know for certain I employ some of them when doing certain techniques.

In many cases, the information Prof. Jay taught at these seminars helped to clarify things I already knew. Sometimes I was shown a subtlety that just made old techniques even more effective. In other cases I disagreed with his assertions, and although I will admit he is more of an expert than me, I never did techniques again after learning them at a seminar.

Basically, I thank Prof. Jay for enhancing what I already knew. I also thank him for exposing me to techniques and concepts that with practice and some trail and error eventually added new dimensions to old forms.

Most of all, I thank Prof. Jay for adding to my martial arts lexicon, and giving me the tools to break down and explain various techniques to my students in a much more concise manner.

The funny thing is that while Wally Jay is credited with developing “Small Circle Jujutsu,” his creation was nothing new or revolutionary. It was based on the martial arts he had learned from others, as well as his own research/trail and error. He may be the person responsible for propagating “small circle” methodology in modern times, but he didn’t create it all on his own.

This is not my just opinion, either. In the article “The Founder of Small Circle Ju Jitsu,” Michael Belzer states:

“In 1962 Jay attracted the attention of a 22-year old martial artist from Seattle named Bruce Lee. Lee was amazed how someone with little formal training in judo could go on to produce champions. However. from the many long hours that Lee spent at Jay's dojo (training hall) with friend Jimmy Lee, the legendary martial artist saw the value of Jay's broad background in the fighting arts. Jay had adopted various techniques from boxing, wrestling, judo, kung fu, weightlifting and jujitsu, and brought them together in what he called his Small Circle Theory Jujitsu. Like Jay and his innovative instructors before him, Bruce Lee knew that talent, technique, and style knew no traditional boundaries and that excellence carried no single banner or flag. The three martial artists spent many long hours exchanging theories, fighting principles, and techniques, and over the following years, a strong bond of trust and friendship developed. As their reputations grew, they remained friends, and while Bruce Lee went on to take Hollywood, Hong Kong, and the martial arts world by storm, Wally Jay established the ten principles that would set his mark in the world of jujitsu.”

“The Founder of Small Circle Ju Jitsu” by Michael Belzer

Now, following the arguments the "Martial Arts Police" made in their allegations, it must be true that Prof. Jay was also a thief. After all, it's clear that many concepts he taught and incorporated into his “small circle system” came from other sources.

In fact, I would argue that he is a better thief than I am, since he profited from what he “stole” more than I ever have, or will.

But maybe Prof. Jay is too famous to be publicly accused of “stealing.” Maybe, what he taught has been so widely accepted as being something he “created,” he is above incrimination.

So let's move on.

Janet Gee

Another instructor I’ve gained valuable insights from is Sifu Janet Gee, Yang Style Tai Chi Chuan/Choy Li Fut. Once again, she has never been my instructor, but I’ve attended several seminars she has taught, and had the opportunity to talk with her several times about martial arts in general.

There is no question that her approach to martial arts is very different from mine. Yet as different as things may appear on the surface, the science that makes the techniques she teaches work is the same.

What I like most about Sifu Gee’s teaching method is her no nonsense approach when explaining the way things work. She also has a great talent for breaking down techniques and demonstrating the different nuances that can cause different results.

While I may lack the physical skills (speed and definitely the flexibility) to be able to do her martial art in the manner she can, I still always gain valuable insights on how things need to be done in order to be effective.

More importantly, she has definitely taught me to approach and examine things in a different manner, and to think outside of the box.

I’ve never been privy to Sifu Gee’s training history, but according to her bio, she started training in the martial arts in 1971. Her principle styles have been Choy Li Fut Kung Fu and Tai Chi Chuan, but over the years she has also studied Aikido, Tae Kwan Do, Jujitsu, Kempo Karate, Indonesian martial arts, and Judo.

Is there anyone out there who doubts the fact that Sifu Gee incorporates concepts, principles, and techniques from numerous sources when she teaches? Of course she does. She studied other arts to improve her skills, and now passes on her combined knowledge to those fortunate enough to train with her.

Furthermore, Sifu Gee states that she has incorporated elements of the “Alexander Technique,” (a method that develops sophisticated conscious coordination designed to improve ease and freedom of movement as well as teach practitioners how to use appropriate amounts of energy for a particular activity), into her martial arts teaching. Now I’ll admit, I don’t know a lot about the “Alexander Technique,” but last time I checked, it's not even a martial art.

But wait, wouldn’t all this cross training and incorporating new ideas make her a thief too? After all, she is combining and propagating information derived from other individuals. I mean, is she doing anything more or less than I’ve been accused of?

Vital Point

Another instructor who has had a direct impact on the way I teach is Prof. Rick Clark, Ao Denkou Kai. Like the other instructors I’ve listed already, Prof. Clark has never been my instructor, but I’ve attended several of his seminars and have hosted him to teach in the Bay Area several times.

While his knowledge of vital point striking is superior to mine, we often exchange concepts and principles. I would like to think I’ve offered him several ideas to contemplate and explore. At least, that is what he has told me several times.

Prof. Clark’s main contribution to my art was exposing me to the upper level of vital point usage, without wasting my time teaching me all the metaphysical mumbo-jumbo many instructors like to perpetuate.

More importantly, Prof. Clark clarified many of the things my teacher Hiroshi Yachigusa taught me, by explaining them to me in simple to understand English. Since there was nothing lost in translation, I have a better understanding of the material now. Nuances which I may have missed because of language barriers, or the poor comprehension skills of youth, were finally pointed out to me. As a result I’m more effective and efficient when performing techniques.

Prof. Clark also helped me a lot with terminology. Because of this, I am able to discuss vital point striking more professionally, and to a general audience.

Of course, even with all the help Prof. Clark has given me over the years, I now have to say he to is a thief. I mean, he originally trained in Korean systems and judo/jujutsu, and then Arnis. He even admits that what he teaches now is an accumulation of the knowledge he has gained over many years, from many sources.

Yes, it’s true that Prof. Clark has done an awful lot of research on his own, but not everything he teaches was self-taught. Not every principle, or scientific method he employs and teaches is his original work. It is an ACCUMULATION of many things, from many sources.

Once a Thief

Lets face it, I could keep going on and on, naming and discussing numerous teachers I’ve had the great fortune to train with in the last 35 years. There are many instructors who have had a long lasting impression on me, and on the methodologies I now employ. No matter who I would name, no matter what style they taught, they can all be accused of “stealing” information and/or techniques from someone else.

They can all be accused of “stealing,” because they are all individuals who cross-trained, searched out, or researched the martial arts in order to improve what they already knew. They all incorporated knew information they discovered to improve their skills, fill gaps in their primary training, or make themselves more efficient.

Basically they’ve all done what I’ve done.

Yes, I admit I was taught a lot of things by a lot of people, but I didn’t “steal” anything. If anything I took what I was shown, examined it, studied it, tried to figure out how it did or did not relate to what I already knew, and after trail and error either incorporated this information or discarded it.

Furthermore, I didn’t “steal” anything because the information I was given was shared with countless others in public forums. People present were under no restrictions, secret blood oaths, or threats not to disseminate what they were told.

The fact that I elected to share such information in a public forum, on this weblog, while others either do not share or do so more privately, isn’t my concern. Nor is it something I should be condemned for.

To accuse me of “stealing,” is ludicrous. If I am guilty, than so is everyone else past and present because since very ancient times no one has come with an original thought or method in regards to fighting methodologies (except perhaps firearms).

Sure things are explained and presented differently, depending on the style, but we martial artists all do the same things. THERE ARE NO SECRETS, AND SCIENCE IS SCIENCE.

Hiroshi Yachigusa taught me a lot, but he didn’t know everything, nor did he claim to. Looking back, I feel Hiroshi Yachigusa tried his best to teach me what he knew, but because of my age and maturity at the time, and the language barrier between us, that information wasn’t as thorough as it could have been.

I realized this long ago. As result, I have made it my business to seek out and train with others no matter what their rank, affiliation, or martial style. As a result I’m not a parrot who repeats the mantra of one sole individual, no matter how much respect I may have for them.

Nor am I the type of person who isn’t willing to change/alter techniques within the martial system I was taught. If I discover a better, more effective method I will adopt it. Fortunately, this is something Yachigusa Sensei would have approved of, he always felt that the essence of his art that was more important than any of the techniques themselves.

So if the above behavior constitutes “stealing” like I’ve been accused of, I’m guilty. Guilty as Hell!! But though I’m admitting my “guilt,” I’m not doing anything that centuries and centuries of martial artists of the past didn’t do.

Clearly, martial artists such as Musashi, Mitose, Ueshiba, Kano, Funakoshi, Chow, Parker, and even Bruce Lee also sought out better ways to improve their abilities, from any source available to them. They too incorporated and embraced new knowledge. And eventually, they taught their accumulated knowledge to others. Often they did this without giving credit to their various sources.

Their direct students continued these progressions, as did future generations of students after them. To make the claim that your style of martial arts has gone unchanged for centuries is ridiculous. Every instructor, no matter how traditional, makes changes or omissions, based on their ability and comprehension. That’s the human factor.

To make the claim that your system, style, or teacher has exclusive rights to some technical information is insanity. Is anyone so delusional to really believe their way is the best, absolute method, and that their aren’t others doing the same things elsewhere? How conceited, arrogant, and self-righteous can someone be?

To those individuals who accused me of theft, and those that thought there was merit to their accusations, I say you should examine what you do, and really explore how “pure and untainted” your martial art style is. I’m sure you’ll discover that your teacher… Ahem… “Stole” things too.

Maybe worse yet, you’ll discover that you are also the sum of many parts. Perhaps you will find that consciously or unconsciously, you’re as big, or even a bigger thief than I. At least I publicly admit what I do.

Coda:

Just in case you didn’t get it--if one of the instructors I’ve named above happens to be your teacher, and you now find yourself fuming that I had the audacity to accuse them of being a thief, you missed the point. None of the above, including myself, “STOLE” anything. That’s the absurdity of the whole accusation, since we are all the sum of many parts.

The fact is I have nothing but the utmost respect for the instructors I’ve listed above.

No angry E-mails please.

Who Says Women Can’t Fight

2007-08-24T00:20:00.000-07:00

When I started teaching fifteen years ago, my school was mainly comprised of teenage girls. In fact, six of my very first seven students were female, (see blog essay “A Brief School History Part 1 – The First Seven,” June 2006).

Since one of my main training partners when I was a student myself was a woman (my teacher’s daughter), I had no reservations about teaching these young ladies. I certainly did not have any concerns about whether women belonged in the martial arts or not. The fact is, I welcomed the opportunity to teach them, especially because I feel women have more of a need to learn life-protection skills than most men do.

Over the years, I’ve read numerous articles debating whether women belong in the martial arts, whether they can compete with men, and the pros and cons of men training with women. I assume that those that believe women have no place training in the martial arts don’t realize that there have been many notable women warriors throughout history. Even the creation of the art of Wing Chun is credited to a woman named Yim Wing Chun (Beautiful Springtime).

I, for one, have never understood these debates. So when I teach women, I teach them exactly like I teach the men. I give them no preferential treatment, and I expect them to perform techniques just like the men do. No “Dojo Bunnies” are allowed.

While the argument that men are physically stronger on average is true, my experience has shown me that women compensate by becoming more technically oriented. This doesn’t mean that any woman could go toe to toe with any man in a fight, but it doesn’t mean they don’t have a chance either. All factors being equal, I don’t see why a woman can't beat a man.

In fact, I know a few women martial artists I wouldn’t want to fight with, and that I would be extremely happy to see coming to my aid in a real a street fight. To be perfectly honest, I was once saved from being thrown off the top of a water tower by my female police partner: she grabbed the suspect’s testicles and pinned him to the ground without ever losing her grip. Now that is technique over brawn. I bet the bad guy is still singing soprano to this day.

Well, for anyone who thinks women can’t fight, or shouldn’t be martial artists, I'm posting this video clip featuring Mixed Martial Arts fighter Satoko Shinashi.

This is one tuff looking little powerhouse. That’s not a sexist statement either. Satoko Shinashi is 4-11 and about 105 pounds. That’s pretty tiny. However, though small in stature this Sambo/Jujutsu stylist has amassed quite a fighting record.

Bronze Medal – 2000 World Sambo Championships (-48kg)

Silver Medal – 2001 Asia Sambo Championship

Gold Medal – All Japan Brazilian Jujutsu Championships

MMA record – 13-1-1

Semi-professional MMA record – 11-0-0

What’s really impressive in this video happens during the last few second, when she makes a much larger male opponent tap out by using an arm bar. It’s clearly a David versus Goliath match, and while I haven’t been able to find out why the fight took place or what specific rules they fought under, it shows a woman can, at times, beat a man.

Now, I’m not saying that Satoko Shinashi is the best woman fighter out there. I’m certain there are plenty of others. What I liked about the video is her technical ability, and the power she demonstrates executing her techniques. Clearly, she is a martial artist.

Certainly, this video shows that women can fight, and I’m sure as female MMA matches gain more acceptance, it wont be long until we witness a number of cross-gender fights.

The Secret: "WILL and SUFFERING"

2007-08-16T10:09:00.000-07:00

A couple of years ago, I had a student who had waited almost 50 years to start taking martial arts classes. While he knew his age would be a factor, he stated he was prepared to endure whatever it took to learn to be a good martial artist.

During my initial phone conversation with this gentleman, I also knew his age was a factor. But anyone willing to drive over an hour to train with me (that's an hour in each direction) deserves a chance, and clearly shows a willingness, if not an eagerness, to learn.

Initially, things went well; I started him off with a program to increase his level of fitness, while instilling some strong fundamentals. I purposely limited what I would exposed him to; after all, the older you are the longer it takes to heal if you get hurt. Even minor bumps and bruises feel more severe as one gets older. I know that first hand, and I'm only 45.

Of course, every now and then I would push him. I would do techniques I knew he wasn't ready for and didn't have the technical capability to execute properly. I didn't do this to make him feel bad or inadequate. I did it simply to expose him to different techniques, and to show him how important mastering the fundamentals were before moving on. I wanted to show him how the fundamentals form the core, the foundation, of all techniques that follow.

As time moved on, I could see he was getting more and more impatient, and bored, of doing the basics. While I fully understood his position, all I could do was try to keep up his morale, while reminding him over and over again about the importance of mastering basic body movement.

Unfortunately, this issue grew and grew; I could see his frustration building. Things finally reached a point where all he could keep asking me was "how could I do things so much better than him?" "Why could the senior students do things so much better than him?" "What was he doing wrong?"

Well, the simple answer would have been that I've been doing this for over 30 years. However, the answer I gave him was more honest, "practice." Practice, practice, and more practice. It requires many hours, weeks, and years spent doing repetition after boring, sometimes painstaking, repetition. My ability to do what I do took a lot of will, a desire not to settle for mediocrity, and a whole lot of suffering--not to mention sacrifice.

Of course, this is not the answer he wanted to hear. He wanted to know the "SECRET."

Secret, what secret? There is no secret. There are no shortcuts. I tried to tell him that he had waited 50 years to start practicing, so he shouldn't be in a rush now.

As you may have guessed, this answer didn't appease him. Eventually the long drive, and lack of perceived progress, discouraged him from continuing training with me. In a way, it was too bad, because he was making a lot more progress than he realized; and if he had focused more on the material than his desire to learn "the secrets," he would have progressed even faster.

* * *

Now, this story is nothing remarkable, and I'm sure every teacher has encountered such a student from time to time. We've all met people who have the desire to achieve something, but do not have the internal fortitude, "the heart," to do what is necessary to accomplish such a goal. This is especially true when it is a goal that requires a great deal of dedication and hard work, coupled with physical hardship.

The importance of this story is that it can be used to teach future students. It's a good story to tell new students when they are facing the same circumstances. Such was the case recently, which of course leads to the main point of this essay.

In this case however, the student wasn't asking for secrets, or looking for shortcuts. He simply wanted to know how to motivate himself to persevere thorough the arduous, often tedious, training regiment he was facing.

It's a good question, and though I tried my best to answer, I don't think I really connected with him. Fortunately, I have some excellent students who often have the ability to express things in a manner that I lack. Many times we may be saying the same exact things, but somebody needs to hear it in a different way. Such was the case this particular day.

Basically, the conversation centered on two aspects of training which are often overlooked: the Will and Suffering.

* * *

Now, I could go on and write a long, wordy essay about this, but fortunately, I was given a link to an article that explains this better than I ever could. Though it was written in regards to mountain climbing, it is applicable to almost any endeavor, and the parallels to martial arts should be clear enough.

The article is titled, "Will and Suffering," and was written by Mark Twight. It can be accessed by going to: http://www.gymjones.com/knowledge.php?id=23

Anyone who is a regular reader on this blog knows I'm not in the habit of linking to someone else's web page, but in this instance it's warranted. I fully agree with what Mr. Twight writes.

One must have the will, the desire to accomplish something. They must have the will to put in the required hours, seek out the proper instruction, and endure the obstacles that may slow down their progress.

They must be willing to suffer. Not just physically, but also socially. If one's goal is to be a professional fighter and they have a choice to train or go to a party, the training has to come first. It's a no-brainier, but it is a sacrifice few are willing to make.

The truth of the matter is that a lot of people have will, especially in the initial phase of starting a new endeavor. Unfortunately, few have the will to suffer in order to achieve their goals.

Let's face it; few people have the patience and/or internal fortitude to complete anything they start. Furthermore, in a day where we are exposed to so many opportunities it's very hard for people to hold an interest in any one thing for very long.

Unfortunately, those that give up when the going gets tough, or when they become frustrated, never learn a very valuable lesson. The real "secret" of success.

* * *

During last night's practice, I asked a new student who has had trouble learning to execute a forward roll she had been practicing. She smiled and answered yes, and proudly stated that she had finally figured out how to do a forward roll.

Sure enough, she executed a forward roll, and then another one. They weren't picture perfect, but her improvement was a major accomplishment for her. At least this time she did not hit her head, slam her shoulder, or make that awful thudding sound.

However, she was still unsatisfied with her progress, and complained about her lack of ability.

"Baby steps," I told her, "you learn by taking baby steps." There was no response, but she nodded in acceptance, as if there was no other way.

Did she have the Will? Clearly, her effort, her determination to learn to roll shows she did. Did she suffer? You bet, and she has the bruises to prove it.

The real question is, did she gain some insight, some introspection, about what she is capable of? I believe so, and that is the most valuable lesson one can gain from any endeavor--when they don't quit, or take shortcuts to achieve their goals.

By having the will--the drive to succeed especially during adversity--and the willingness to suffer in order to achieve said goals, one develops a sense of self, a sense of self-worth, and the knowledge they can in fact accomplish their goals. That is the most valuable lesson one can ever learn, and something money can't buy.

[see also: Patience and Repitition and The Secret ]

---------------

Mark F. Twight is the founder of Gym Jones, a private invitation only facility. He rose to prominence in the world Alpine mountaineering community in the late 80's, and recently was credited with training the cast of the movie "300."

A Uniform for the Low Ranking Spearman

2007-08-04T21:04:00.000-07:00

As readers stumble upon this blog or the school website, we get all sorts of feedback: some we receive directly and some we find as chatter on message boards, some is thoughtful, some is nasty.

On several occasions now, people have asked and speculated about a photo of myself on our website where I am wearing a green kimono and a tare.

Normally I hate pictures of myself. Maybe one out of five hundred pictures taken of me won't get torn up, or--in this day of digital--erased. With such a small selection of photos of me to choose from, I picked this one. One day I’m sure it will be replaced when I find one I like better.

This photo happened to be taken on a day when I was teaching my students how to use the yari (spear). This outfit of a kimono, no hakama (pleated trousers), and a tare--basically a padded apron--from a set of kendo armor, might seem unusual to most practitioners of the Japanese martial arts.

Yet, this was the normal "uniform" that I wore when I trained in Sojutsu (spear arts) with my teacher (minus the t-shirt seen underneath, which my teacher would never have allowed, but I now wear to protect the kimono from my sweat--it’s very hard to find a kimono that fits me).

It might surprise some of you young guys, but finding a hakama in the 70’s and 80’s wasn’t that easy. However, kimonos were easy to find, and a vintage kimono was a lot cheaper than a hakama. As a result, we wore kimonos most of the time, especially at the beach where we didn’t want to get our hakamas (those that we could find) dirty or damaged due to the sand and water.

As for the tare, well that’s simple: it protects the hips, upper thighs, and groin. Since sojutsu training includes a great deal of thrusting practice from the hip, it is not unusual to get hit in these spots when doing two man drills/forms, especially if one’s timing is just a little off, or a deflection doesn’t go were it is suppose to

While the tare doesn’t offer great protection, it’s better than nothing at all. It’s also easier to find and far more affordable that buying a do-maru, which would be the most appropriate equipment to practice in. A do-maru is a type of Japanese medieval armor that first appeared in Japan during the 11th century; it was commonly worn by lower ranking foot soldiers.

I think a lot of the confusion related to my picture would have been eliminated if I had also been wearing the do (chest guard) that normally goes with the tare. However, when I was training with my teacher, finding Kendo armor was even harder than finding a hakama. When one could come across them, they were very expensive--especially for a teenager with limited funds. Lets face it, they’re even expensive today.

Since lack of funds was always an issue, my teacher and I rarely could afford to buy martial arts equipment. We had to improvise. This meant we rarely, if ever, owned a do to wear, and we never had a men (helmet). We didn’t even have kote (gloves)--which, by the way, are terrible for spear practice (at least the ones designed for Kendo are.)


Do	Men	Kote

The fact of the matter is, that when I was training with my teacher, we normally made our own tare. We made them out of stiff cardboard and foam that was covered in assorted scrap fabrics. They didn’t look pretty, but they were functional, and if they ripped we didn't care. In addition, the “plates” were a lot longer then most tare, and covered both the front and back of the person wearing it.

In many instances, our tare were more comparable to kusazuri, though some versions were clearly related to haidate.

Now please forgive my ignorance when it comes to Japanese armor, but I believe the difference between a kusazuri and haidate are that the kusazuri version is a skirt of plates attached to a leather belt which is laced to the bottom of the do, while the haidate version are a series of plates intended to specifically protect the thighs.

Another difference is that haidate do not protect the rear side of the person wearing them, and from what I’ve read were often not worn by samurai because they were uncomfortable, had limited mobility, and slowed them down.

Kusazuri with do

Haidate

As for the do, we did try to make them, but cardboard doesn’t work well, and really gives a false sense of security. After much trial and error, my teacher came to the conclusion that it was a waste of time. He felt that it was more important to really learn to deflect or evade attacks to the body, than rely on such protection. And yes, it hurts a lot when a thrust strike hits your body.

Of course, we tried other things. One substitute we tried was using chest guards designed for baseball catchers. But they presented other problems. For example, when they got wet they became very heavy and uncomfortable. They would also smell and rot due to the moisture. Basically, they were just not a good solution.

We also made our own sune-ate (shin guards), which were either worn over are bare legs, or covered the bottom of our hakamas when we elected to wear them. The beaches in San Francisco where we trained can get extremely cold and a hakama helps keep you warm or at least reduce the wind-chill factor--at least a little.

As I said already, I’m no armor expert; but from all the pictures and illustrations I’ve seen of Ashigaru (conscripted foot soldiers) they are normally depicted wearing little more than a do with kusazuri, and some type of simple helmet such as a jingasa (war hat).

My teacher considered himself as a spearman, and had ancestors who were once low ranking samurai, possibly ashigaru (a fact he never fully confirmed or denied). I believe that he wished to equip himself in that fashion while practicing spear techniques, but elected to wear only the tare since he didn’t own a do or a do-maru.

Whether this was a family tradition, or was simply because my teacher couldn’t afford the proper equipment I can’t say. Though if I had to guess, it was probably due to his financial situation.

In either case, following the example set by my teacher, we now wear the tare when practicing Sojutsu, which explains the photo. One day, if I can find affordable, sturdy, American-sized do-maru, that tradition will most likely change.

I’m not stating that wearing the tare alone is traditional when it comes to Sojutsu styles, or that any other school dress in such a manner. It just works for us.

Picture from “Ashigaru 1467-1649” by Stephen Turnbull and Howard Gerrard

Prof. Rick Clark Seminar Review

2007-07-31T23:18:00.000-07:00

I just returned from taking Prof. Clark to the airport, and I thought I would write down some thoughts about this weekend’s seminar.

Saturday July 28th 2007

Saturday’s seminar was held in San Francisco, with fifteen attendees. Since the class was largely composed of people familiar with Mr. Clark and what he teaches, Mr. Clark bypassed his normal introduction and proceeded right to the techniques.

These techniques ranged from striking specific points to several forms of joint locks. However, they all shared one thing in common; they were all painful.

The most notable one--which will require a lot of practice to become proficient in--was a method of locking up the thumb. While difficult to do, this technique is clearly utilized in several Aiki and Jujutsu techniques. However, while this method is most likely widely applied to some degree or another, I don’t think many practitioners who utilize it are even aware of the fact.

Another interesting technique Prof. Clark taught was a specific point located on the back of the hand. Not only was it painful, but when properly done one’s opponent can not make a fist. Or, if one’s opponent is holding a weapon, this point can be struck to make them release it.

Now I realize that anyone reading this will say there is nothing really interesting or ground breaking about striking or pressing a point on the back of the hand, but chances are this point isn’t the one most martial art practitioners are familiar with. Even Prof. Clark stated this was something new he was investigating.

Overall, I think those that attended this seminar had a good time, and left with several new concepts and techniques to mull over--not to mention a few bruises to recover from.

I know I had a good time on Saturday. Not only because I enjoy learning new things, but also because several old friends I haven’t see in a long time were in attendance.

I also want to thank my student Chad for allowing us to use his office to host this seminar. I know a couple of people had a little problem finding the place, but it worked out really well.

Sunday July 29th 2007

On Sunday we traveled to Dixon, California where Jim Ernest, the owner of Ramtown Karate, hosted the seminar. Fourteen people attended this seminar that focused on various applications found within karate kata (forms).

I don’t practice karate, so I rarely have a clue when Prof. Clark discusses various katas karate practitioners do. But I enjoy watching and learning his interpretations of the various kata movements.

The most interesting thing I’ve observed is how similar many of the movements in kata are to those movements practiced in Aiki and Jujutsu arts. For me, the more similarities I see within different martial arts, the more I really believe that in some point in our training, we all end up doing the same things. Only the approach, and the specialty a particular style focus on initially is different.

What I really like about seeing Prof. Clark’s interpretations of kata movements is that he makes sense of some movements I’ve often questioned, such as double upper blocks. I for one have never believed the most common explanation, which often says the movement is designed to block two attackers who simultaneously paunch to your head. My main reason is that the chances of such an attack occurring would be so extremely rare.

Certainly, there would be karate practitioners who would debate Prof. Clark’s interpretation; however, the technique he showed for that particular movement makes a lot more sense. If nothing else, it shows a deeper examination of a commonly practiced movement.

I think Prof Clark's approach of “thinking outside of the box” to explain commonly done techniques is why I continue to invite him to the San Francisco.

Another element that was interesting during this seminar was that there was attendee who didn’t feel or react to any stimulus intended to cause pain. I mean nothing worked on him at all

I have always taught my students that pain is never a goal of martial art techniques, just a pleasant by product when and if it happens. That no one should wait for a person to react to a painful stimulus, since they may be very disappointed when it doesn’t happen, and worst yet by waiting put their safety in jeopardy.

Prof. Clark agrees with this theory, and makes it clear that the techniques he teaches are a supplement to all ready viable techniques. He makes it clear no one should rely on these techniques alone. This is unlike some other instructors who teach seminars such as these.

I think Sunday was another successful day, and that everyone in attendance left with a lot of information to process and play with.

I want to thank Sensei Ernest for co-hosting Prof. Clark, and for allowing us to use his school. He has a great school, and his students were a pleasure to meet and work with.